Photo Credit: Bottom-Fisher Finds
18K Gold Retro Cufflinks with Rubies and Sapphires
Buy It Now Price: $684.95 (price as of 2019; item no longer available)
Pros:
-These 1950s Retro cufflinks are beautifully crafted from textured 18 karat yellow gold and set with natural, untreated rubies and sapphires.
-Each cufflink measures 0.69 inches (17 mm) long by 0.44 inches (11 mm) wide, while the pair tip the scales at a hefty 9.5 grams (0.3054 troy ounces).
-Retro jewelry was popular from the late 1930s into the 1950s. It was characterized by bright, bold looks, multi-colored gold and a willingness to forgo diamonds in order to experiment with less expensive gemstones (like citrines, aquamarines and topazes).
-The rubies and sapphires set in these cufflinks are undoubtedly completely natural, untreated stones. We know this because the cufflinks were made in the late 1940s or early 1950s, before corundum treatments became widespread in the 1970s. Furthermore, the inclusions (flaws) visible in the stones are absolutely typical of natural ruby/sapphire gems.
-Important jewelry designers and fashion houses showed a renewed interest in naturalism starting in the late 1940s. This was notable because naturalism had long been neglected in the jewelry world up until that point – more or less since the abandonment of the Art Nouveau and Edwardian styles around 1910.
-These Retro cufflinks display extremely fine workmanship, an attribute that is harder to find in fine jewelry than you might suspect. In addition, they are also quite heavy, indicating that the jeweler who created them did not skimp on the gold.
-Natural, untreated rubies and sapphires are extremely rare today. Most of these gems are heat-treated, flux-filled, beryllium diffused, dyed or otherwise modified to improve their appearance. It is estimated that less than 1% of gem quality ruby production remains completely untreated before being set in jewelry!
-This pair of retro cufflinks exhibit classic 1950s design. They combine naturalistic flower motifs and matte-finish yellow gold with eye-catching colored gemstones to form an aesthetically cohesive whole.
-I estimate the weight of the rubies and sapphires set in the front of these Retro cufflinks at 0.20 carats each and the rubies set in the back at 0.13 carats each. As a result, the total estimated carat weight of gems contained in the piece is a substantial 1.06 carats.
-I believe the intrinsic value of these cufflinks is around $291 for the gold (with gold trading at $1,300 an ounce) and $106 for the gems (at about $100 per carat, conservatively). This gives a total scrap value of roughly $400, which means that the seller’s asking price of $685 is less than double the intrinsic value – quite a bargain in my opinion.
-These solid 18 karat gold Retro cufflinks would make a great addition to any gentleman’s formal wardrobe, while simultaneously being a great tangible investment.
Cons:
-These cufflinks are not hallmarked. Instead, the metal fineness has been verified by the seller via an acid test. However, there is nothing in the photos that would lead me to believe that this jewelry is anything other than solid 18 karat gold. They really are incredibly well-made.
-The natural rubies and sapphires set in these Retro cufflinks are of good, but not the very highest, quality. You can tell by the numerous flaws which are readily apparent in the stones. However, these rubies and sapphires are still valuable because they are completely untreated – a rarity in today’s gem market.
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