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Collecting Antique Jewelry for Profit

Collecting Antique Jewelry for Profit
Collecting antique jewelry can be both fun and profitable.  For example, this Modernist 14 karat white gold ring set with a chunky 2.4 carat rhodolite garnet and flanked by two brilliant cut diamonds perfectly encapsulates the go-go years of the 1970s.

What is the best way to collect antique jewelry for those with an eye toward future investment return?  Now there’s something to be said for the simple, pure joy of owning a piece of old jewelry just because you love it.  But if we’re going to be laying down hundreds and sometimes thousands of dollars for a vintage piece, it is good to have some assurance that we’ll be able to recoup our investment down the road.

Before we get started on the best ways to collect antique jewelry for profit, I want to lay out some important ground rules.

I am only discussing fine jewelry in this article.  I define fine jewelry as being made of 14 karat or higher purity gold.  I’m not a big fan of lower karat gold alloys.  Platinum and palladium are also excellent fine jewelry metals, although you’ll probably never run into the latter metal in a vintage piece.  I believe sterling silver may be used in fine jewelry, but only within the context of the Modernist (circa late 1950s to the present), Brutalist (circa 1960 to 1980) or Arts & Crafts (circa 1880 to 1910) movements.

In other words, costume jewelry is outside the scope of this article.  If you are in doubt as to whether a piece is costume or not just remember this handy tip: costume jewelry pretends to be more valuable than it actually is; fine jewelry does not.

So for example, a mass-produced 1940s Retro brooch by Trifari may be made of vermeil (gold plating over sterling silver) set with clear rhinestones.  This is clearly imitating a solid karat gold brooch set with diamonds – a far more expensive piece.  Our hypothetical Trifari brooch is clearly a piece of costume jewelry.

In contrast, a hand-fabricated 1960s Modernist Scandinavian bracelet may be crafted from solid sterling silver set with smoky quartz cabochons.  This piece of jewelry is meant to stand alone as a work of art for your wrist.  It is not attempting to imitate more valuable materials and is therefore a piece of fine jewelry in its own right.

I also want to make it clear that you always want to buy high quality jewelry – pieces that reflect both good craftsmanship and good zeitgeist.  Zeitgeist is the term I use for jewelry that does a good job of embodying the design principles of its era.  You want your Art Deco jewelry to be geometric and streamlined.  Likewise, you want your Victorian jewelry to be chunky, ornate and bold.

The workmanship of a piece can’t be overlooked either.  There is plenty of 14 karat and 18 karat gold vintage jewelry out there that was mass-produced to an inferior standard.  This substandard jewelry may have blobs of excess solder, bulky prongs or paper-thin metal (to save on weight).  It may also be set with cheap and poorly cut – albeit genuine – stones.  Even if it is legitimately old, such jewelry is only fit for the melting pot and should be avoided at all costs.

Now let’s continue on to the main topic.

 

1) Collecting Antique Jewelry by Theme

 

First on our list is collecting antique jewelry by theme.  The wonderland of subject matter to choose from is so diverse as to be mind boggling.

For example, you could concentrate on jewelry with an animal theme – cats, dogs, horses, dolphins, insects, birds, etc.  You could even specialize in mythological animals if you cared to.  Animals have been perennially popular in antique jewelry straight from antiquity right up until the present day.

Another possibility would be sports.  The vintage jewelry market is overflowing with fine example paying homage to tennis, golf, bowling, baseball, basketball, football and soccer, among others.  Simply pick the sport you like best (or collect them all as a “sports generalist” jewelry aficionado)!

Transportation is another favorite motif.  This encompasses cars, trains, airplanes, ships and even stagecoaches.  What makes this area of vintage jewelry collecting so fascinating is that 20th century society was absolutely obsessed with speed.  Whether it was a Stutz Bearcat sports car or a Pan Am Clipper airplane, the faster it went, the sexier it was.

Of course, if you find a particular subject matter too limiting, you can always collect antique jewelry by type.  For instance, you could focus on just purchasing bracelets, pendants, rings or brooches.  Or you could delve into more obscure areas like stickpins, cameos or mourning jewelry.  The hobby can be whatever you want it to be.

A final theme would be to collect old jewelry by era.  If you really love the look of a particular time period, this may be the way to go.  Do you adore long flowing hair and idealistic naturalism?  Then 1890s Art Nouveau jewelry is your fix.  Do you admire sleek lines and bold geometric forms?  Then 1920s Art Deco is your answer.  Do you long for organic abstraction?  Then 1960s Modernist is your ambition.

 

Victorian Owl StickpinPhoto Credit: AnotherSkyVintage
This slightly whimsical Edwardian era owl stickpin is from the first decade of the 20th century.  By cleverly combining multi-colored white, rose and yellow gold with old European cut diamonds for eyes, it achieves a stunning effect.  With an asking price below $1,000, this stickpin is not only a superb example of highly collectible animal-themed antique jewelry, but is also a good investment piece.

 

I believe that collecting vintage jewelry by theme has perhaps the most potential in today’s market.  Old jewelry sporting desirable themes is highly collectible in my opinion, with a vast pool of interested buyers.  It is certainly the most flexible approach.  There are good quality examples available for just a few hundred dollars, or even a bit less if you get lucky.

The downside of collecting antique jewelry by theme is that there is almost too much choice.  You will have to do the legwork involved in winnowing out lower quality pieces in order to find that one gem hidden among the dregs.  It does represent an easy entry point into the field of vintage jewelry collecting, but some experience will be necessary in order to achieve true proficiency.

 

2) Collecting Antique Jewelry by Intrinsic Value

 

The second avenue to collect antique jewelry is by intrinsic value.  This technique involves only purchasing vintage jewelry that is priced close to the underlying value of its component parts.  Another term for intrinsic value is scrap value.  One way to visualize this is to imagine taking apart a specific piece of jewelry until all we have left are piles of loose gemstones and precious metals.  If these resulting precious materials were sold as scrap, they would represent the intrinsic value of a piece.

However, I want to emphasize that we never intend to disassemble fine antique or vintage jewelry for its scrap value; it is always worth far more in its original form.  Nonetheless, intrinsic value remains a valuable concept for the jewelry collector or investor.

Under normal circumstances it is impossible to purchase a piece of fine vintage jewelry for less than its intrinsic value.  The market simply doesn’t price good quality antique jewelry at or below the value of its component parts.  In fact, I believe that double intrinsic value is a good starting price point for old fine jewelry.  In other words, you’ve gotten a good deal if the intrinsic value of a piece is 50% (or more) of the price you pay.

One downside to the intrinsic value method of buying antique jewelry is that it can be difficult to properly estimate the scrap value of gemstones.  Some gems (like natural rubies, sapphires, emeralds and diamonds) can be very valuable – up to thousands of dollars per stone – while others (like citrines, blue topazes, amethysts and moonstones) can be worth almost nothing – a dollar a stone or even less.  And this doesn’t even take into account the fact that synthetic stones (which usually have no intrinsic value at all) have been regularly mounted in jewelry since circa 1900!  So there is definitely a subjective element to estimating the value of a gem-studded piece of jewelry.

In contrast, the precious metal content of jewelry is generally much easier to estimate.

First, you weigh the piece. Second, you subtract the estimated weight of any gemstones.  Each carat of gem weight is equal to 0.2 grams, but the overall estimated gemstone weight doesn’t have to be very exact to be useful.  Next, you multiply the net metal weight by the fineness of the alloy, expressed as a percentage.  For example, 14 karat gold is 58.3% fine and 18 karat gold is 75% fine.  The resulting number is the actual (estimated) pure precious metal content of the jewelry, which can then be multiplied by the current spot price of the metal to arrive at a dollar value.

Another downside of the intrinsic value strategy is that it forces you to be an opportunist.  You can’t set out by saying, “I’m only going to purchase 1920s era Art Deco rings at less than 2x their intrinsic value.”  There simply isn’t enough available in the marketplace for an approach this narrow to be viable.  You will end up finding – and therefore buying – nothing.

Instead, you need to cast a wide net when investing in vintage jewelry based on intrinsic value.  This means you must consider most eras and jewelry types.  And your resulting collection will, by necessity, end up being somewhat eclectic.

The great advantage of purchasing vintage jewelry with a low price to intrinsic value ratio is that it is a very low risk proposition.  Honestly, if done properly it should be almost impossible to lose money using this method.  And the upside can be substantial.  Incidentally, this is the method I use in my personal collecting, although it is certainly not for everyone.

But if all of this sounds a bit overwhelming, then I have a convenient shortcut you may find useful.  If you can purchase a (non-synthetic) gem-set piece of fine antique jewelry in either 14 karat (or better) gold or platinum for $100 a gram or less, then it is usually a good deal from an intrinsic value standpoint.  Many sellers will openly state a gram weight in their online listings, which makes this hint especially handy.  The $100 a gram mark would equate to approximately double intrinsic value under most circumstances.

 

Mid Century Modern CufflinksPhoto Credit: nooni
This stylish pair of 1950s 14 karat yellow gold Mid-Century Modern cufflinks weighs an impressively hefty 13.6 grams.  In addition, they are set with two good quality cabochon cut natural star sapphires.  As a result, the intrinsic value of the set is approximately the same as its asking price (around $700) – a rare instant win in the world of vintage jewelry.

 

An alternative to the intrinsic value method of collecting fine vintage jewelry is to concentrate on examples that only employ one specific gemstone or material.  In effect, you would become a specialist on one particular gem or metal.  For example, you could choose to only collect platinum jewelry.  Or you could specialize in pre-WWII jewelry containing old cut diamonds.  You could even pursue something slightly outside the box like only collecting enameled jewelry or coral-set pieces, for example.

By specializing in one select material you would eventually become extremely knowledgeable about it.  This would allow you to much more easily spot bargains in your chosen area of expertise.  However, this approach lacks the safety of buying old jewelry based on a reasonable price to intrinsic value ratio.

 

3) Collecting Antique Jewelry by Designer

 

The final approach to collecting vintage jewelry is by designer or name brand.  This strategy is pretty straight forward.  Simply purchase older jewelry hallmarked by luminary haute couture luxury houses such as Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Boucheron, Harry Winston, Van Cleef & Arpels, or Buccellati, among others.

The benefit to following this strategy is that you are guaranteed a fairly high level of overall quality.  These storied luxury houses only hired experienced craftsmen who worked with the highest quality materials.  As a result, vintage jewelry from Cartier, for example, will always be both well made and set with fine, natural gemstones.

The big downside to this type of collecting is that everyone else has already figured it out already.  This means that prices for antique fine designer jewelry are through the roof – almost always thousands, if not tens of thousands of dollars per piece.  In fact, I am of the opinion that many participants in the vintage jewelry market use name brands as a proxy for quality.

That isn’t a compliment, by the way.  It means that buyers are taking a shortcut to compensate for their lack of industry knowledge.  But it is a very expensive shortcut.

Even though the luxury houses produced excellent quality jewelry, it doesn’t mean they had a monopoly on the very best jewelry.  In fact, it is not uncommon for some high-end, completely unmarked vintage jewelry to be crafted to a better standard than pieces from even the most renowned luxury houses!  But because many collectors don’t know how to identify the characteristics of high quality vintage jewelry on their own, they default to buying the “Tiffany & Co.” stamp on the back.

As a result they not only overpay in my opinion, but are also susceptible to forged hallmarks illicitly placed on lower quality goods.

Of course, one can always look beyond the typical designer names.

There were many other jewelry manufacturers who produced fine quality pieces that simply don’t get the same reverence as the haute couture luxury houses do.  Overlooked makers include Liberty & Co. of London, Krementz of New Jersey, J.E. Caldwell of Philadelphia and Oscar Heyman of New York City.  There were also more specialist jewelers like Mikimoto of Tokyo – a cultured pearl expert, Ming’s of Hawaii – specializing in jade, coral and pearls, and Gump’s of San Francisco – a leader in Orientalist motifs, jade and pearls.

 

Mid Century Modern Krementz BroochPhoto Credit: caz7722
The delicately hued enamels on this 1950s Krementz brooch are a feast for the eyes.  Although it isn’t as well known as some of the big luxury houses, Krementz produced some truly top-notch vintage jewelry which is richly deserving of collectors’ and investors’ attention.

 

Because they are not household names, the pricing for these lesser-known vintage jewelry makers is often substantially less than that of the premier brands.  However, their quality is not necessarily any lower.  In fact, sometimes these makers produced jewelry for the major luxury houses under contract.  But you would never know it because the Cartier or Tiffany & Co. hallmark is all that ended up being stamped on the finished goods.

A final approach to collecting antique jewelry by designer is to choose obscure makers who were nonetheless leaders in their fields.  For example, Larter & Sons of Newark, NJ concentrated on men’s jewelry such as stickpins, cufflinks and studs.  Carter, Gough & Co., also of Newark, NJ, specialized in pins and cufflinks, although they produced other types of jewelry as well.

Because these companies typically closed their doors decades ago, they have little name recognition today.  As a result, it is often possible to pick up their masterpieces for a pittance compared to more well-known makers.

The big disadvantage of collecting antique jewelry from companies with little market acceptance is that their day in the sun may never come.  Collectors may simply never really catch on to the fact that these underappreciated designers produced some truly fine jewelry.

In the end the most important rule for collecting antique jewelry is to buy what you like.  However, it wouldn’t hurt to do so within one of the three frameworks listed above: theme, intrinsic value or designer.

 

Read more thought-provoking Antique Sage gems & jewelry articles here.

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Read in-depth Antique Sage investment guides here.


Antique Jewelry Trends – Inflation in 2023 and Beyond

Antique Jewelry Trends - Inflation in 2023 and Beyond
Photo Credit: Vintage Vault Classics

As 2023 unfolds, let’s talk for a moment about recent antique jewelry trends.  But before we get to the meat of the topic, I’d like to start off with a short story.  I promise it’s relevant – really!

Not long ago I was browsing listings for vintage and antique jewelry on Etsy, hoping to find a bargain.

This is definitely not as glamorous as it might sound.

My process involves wading through hundreds of listings looking for that one piece that wows me while sporting a reasonable price.  These are much harder to find than you might think.  In my estimate, only about 25 listings out of 1000 will be worth looking at more closely.  Of those 25 listings, only 1 or 2 will be potential buys.  That is an ultimate hit rate of 0.1% to 0.2% – not exactly rich pickings!

In any case, I eventually stumbled across a piece that fit my requirements.  It was a bold 1940s Retro era floral brooch crafted in sumptuous 14 karat white gold, set with round-cut diamonds and marquise-cut rubies.  This brooch had a lot going for it.  It weighed in at an extraordinarily heavy 16.3 grams, meaning that the gold content of the piece alone was worth $50 more than the asking price!

It was also set with over two dozen brilliant-cut diamonds of various sizes, totaling more than 2 carats in weight.  The large central diamond was not brilliant-cut, but was instead an Old European cut stone that I estimated at close to 40 points in weight.  This mix of modern brilliant-cut diamonds and Old European cut diamonds in the same piece wasn’t uncommon in 1940s jewelry.  In any case, the Retro brooch was stunning; it practically dripped with jewels!

There were however, a couple of things I didn’t love about the brooch.

The 17 marquise-cut rubies set at the perimeter of the brooch were all flame fusion synthetics.  Although period correct and perfectly acceptable in a vintage piece of this era, I would have of course preferred natural rubies.

The Retro styling of the piece was also imperfect.

While Retro era jewelry is supposed to be bold – and this piece certainly was – it was simultaneously a little unfocused or amorphous in execution.  I suspect that the piece was made in the late 1940s/early 1950s during the transition from Retro to Mid-Century design.  To the detriment of the piece, it incorporated design elements from both styles.

Sometimes this happens in old jewelry.

Despite these shortcomings, I found the Retro brooch to be a compelling investment.  The gold content of the piece more than covered its purchase price; the intrinsic value of the diamonds and any artistic value the brooch had were simply icing on the cake.  The asking price was $490, but the seller was having a 30% off sale at the time.  As a result, this lovely and authentic Retro brooch could be had for a mere $343!

I placed my order and then eagerly awaited my prize to be shipped.

Unfortunately, life had other plans.

A couple days after placing the order, the seller reached out to inform me that she couldn’t find the item in her inventory.  Apparently, the brooch had been sold at a trade show a couple months earlier and had subsequently never been marked as sold in her books by accident.  And just like that, the deal that I thought was there…evaporated.

I was terribly disappointed, but these things happen.

What this experience really underscored for me was just how difficult it has become to find investment grade vintage karat gold jewelry below the $500 price point in 2023.  This troubling antique jewelry trend is a dramatic departure from the situation just a few years ago, when fine vintage material was reasonably plentiful for $400 or even $300.  Now those same pieces are only offered for $700 or $800 – sometimes more!

I have some theories about why this happened and what the future may hold for the antique jewelry market.

 

Vintage Karat Gold Jewelry ($500 to $1,000) for Sale on eBay

(This is an affiliate link for which I may be compensated)

 

As with many things in our lives, the COVID-19 pandemic of 2020 is at least partially to blame for the skyrocketing price of fine old jewelry.  When people were trapped in their homes due to the lockdowns, some entertained themselves with Netflix, others with online gambling and quite a few, apparently, with online shopping for vintage jewelry.

We don’t know how large the influx of new collectors/admirers hunting for sleek Art Deco pendants, whimsical Edwardian rings or bold Retro bracelets was, but it was significant enough to increase prices substantially across the board.

As I previously mentioned, there is vanishingly little good vintage karat gold/platinum jewelry supply left in the market below the $500 price point.  There isn’t even that much in the $500 to $1,000 range, although there is certainly some.  It is only above the psychologically important $1,000 mark that you begin to find plentiful numbers of high quality vintage and antique pieces.

This inflation driven antique jewelry trend has been a long time in coming.

For about 25 years – from the early 1990s to the late 2010s – pricing for fine vintage jewelry was fairly stable, with only modest increases often related to the rising underlying value of a piece’s gold or gemstone content.  Yes, there were pockets of strength during that time in areas like signed designer pieces (Cartier, Bulgari, Tiffany, Bucheron, etc.) and those set with very valuable stones (superb quality emeralds, rubies, sapphires or diamonds greater than 1 or 2 carats in weight).  But for most other segments of the vintage jewelry market, price appreciation proceeded at a leisurely 1% to 3% per annum for better than two decades.

The last few years since 2020 have blown this formerly reliable trend completely out of the water.  Now good quality antique jewelry is experiencing 5% to 20% price increases every year – and that is on top of the approximately 50% one-time jump in prices around 2021.

Increased demand from new collectors isn’t the only dynamic at work, however.

There is also a persistently shrinking vintage jewelry supply due to the fact that the Silent and Boomer generations who once owned/inherited 1950s and earlier jewelry are now in terminal demographic decline.  It is a truism of the estate sale business that the bulk of items found in most liquidating estates will be no older than about 60 years old.  This means that most jewelry coming out of estates right now is from the 1960s or later.  I explored this concept in greater depth in an article titled “The Demographics of Antiques“.

We can therefore infer that older antique jewelry from the 1950s and earlier will only become scarcer as time goes on – with commensurate price increases, of course!

So what is a vintage jewelry connoisseur or investor to do?

Well, I see four possible choices.

First, you could soldier on looking for the few remaining good quality karat gold pieces of vintage jewelry that are still available under $500.  It would require a great deal of knowledge and patience for this strategy to pay off.  And, unfortunately, the day will eventually come – probably sooner than we would hope – when there is simply nothing worthwhile left to be had at this price point.

I would also like to point out that a lot of the nicer vintage jewelry I’ve found recently in this category only technically qualifies from a price perspective.  In other words, the asking price is $475 or $495 – a stone’s throw from $500.  I fear that the days of really nice antique pieces being offered at $250 or $300 is probably over.

 

Vintage Scandinavian Modernist Jewelry for Sale on eBay

(This is an affiliate link for which I may be compensated)

 

Another strategy would be to simply throw in the towel and expand your budget.  This would mean moving up to the $500 to $1,000 tier when shopping for antique jewelry.  Even here, I don’t think there is a great selection available at the moment.  But it is definitely a more viable option than trying to bottom-feed below $500.

When shopping in this price range I would emphasize solid karat gold or platinum jewelry that is set with sizable precious stones, if at all possible.  In my opinion, it is very difficult to find non-gem set gold jewelry that is investment grade.  And while there are always exceptions to every rule, a piece would have to be really special to be investment-oriented without gemstones.

A third approach would be to switch to vintage costume jewelry.  The real advantage here is that you would be able to afford the best of the best – the top of the product stack – for under $500.  Relatively few costume pieces sell for more than that, although some are starting to.

Vintage costume jewelry was also usually very on-point, stylistically speaking.  Costume jewelry manufacturers always embraced the prevailing style trends of their age.  So if you crave that big, expensive-looking, gem-studded Retro or Mid-Century look, but have a hopelessly small beer budget, then costume jewelry is a possibility.

Unfortunately, these are the only good things I can say about vintage costume jewelry.  Costume jewelry almost always has zero intrinsic value.  In addition, it was a mass produced product with no crossover between famous makers of fine jewelry and those of costume jewelry.

Therefore, I don’t consider vintage costume jewelry to be investible and do not believe it will have a return profile that is nearly as strong as high quality vintage karat gold jewelry in the future.  Vintage costume jewelry appeals to the specialist or casual collector only – not the investor.

A final scenario would be to concentrate on Modernist jewelry from the late 1950s to the 1980s.  I especially like Modernist pieces from the Scandinavian countries: Norway, Sweden, Denmark and Finland.

Most of the Modernist jewelry in this price range will use sterling silver as its primary medium.  Nonetheless, its organic shapes, eclectic themes and sweeping lines instinctively appeal to a broad range of people.  And few peoples produced vintage Modernist jewelry to the same level of artistic accomplishment as the Scandinavians did.

Although tremendously beautiful, Modernist jewelry is still affordable for two different reasons.

First, it isn’t old enough to have rolled off the demographic wave I mentioned earlier.  This means it is still relatively abundant in the marketplace.  Secondly, Modernist jewelry is often made with lower intrinsic value materials such as sterling silver, quartzes, amber, enamel, etc.  This limits the scrap value of most Modernist pieces, helping to keep them in a lower price range.

 

Vintage Danish Modernist Bracelet

Photo Credit: inScandinavia
Although relatively inexpensive, this vintage Danish Modernist Sterling silver bracelet from the 1970s is mounted with bright green chrysoprase gemstones which create visual interest.

 

But don’t let the low prices fool you.

Modernist jewelry was often hand-made to a very high artistic and technical standard.  In addition, examples of Scandinavian origin were usually at the cutting-edge of style for their era and were often clearly hallmarked as to maker, country, city and date!  As an added bonus, it is not uncommon to find mixed metal Modernist jewelry rendered in sterling silver generously accented with solid karat gold elements.  This helps separate high quality Modernist jewelry from less intrinsically valuable costume jewelry.

If you are interested in vintage jewelry as an investment and find yourself absolutely unable to exceed the $500 or $600 price barrier, then I wholeheartedly recommend Modernist jewelry as your best option.

For the first time in decades, inflation has finally found its way into the world of vintage jewelry.  This is both a good and a bad thing.  It is good because people are finally recognizing the value of fine vintage and antique jewelry, which had previously been ignored.  But it is also bad because we can no longer buy older, gorgeous jewelry at unbelievably low prices anymore.

But I have a final bit of good news for vintage jewelry connoisseurs and investors.  The U.S. economy – and with it the global economy – is almost certainly going to plunge into a severe recession by the end of 2023.  When this happens there will be a 6 to 18 month window of temporarily reduced antique jewelry prices.  This will give the financially savvy hard asset investor one last chance to snag a bargain in the world of high quality vintage jewelry.

 

Read more thought-provoking Antique Sage trend articles here.

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Read in-depth Antique Sage investment guides here.


2023 Antique Buys I Like

2023 Antique Buys I Like

One of the recurring themes of my blog is opportunistic investing.  I would rather patiently wait to buy the right asset at the right price, rather than throw gobs of money to blindly hit the bid.  As 2023 progresses, I believe we will see some juicy deals in the world of antiques.

Ever since the COVID pandemic hit in early 2020, I have favored purchasing pieces that are more liquid rather than less liquid.  This can be a challenge in the antiques and tangible asset category where illiquidity abounds.

In the context of antiques, liquidity refers to items that sell for a modest premium over their melt/scrap value.  In the circumstances of a forced sale, the worst you will do is recover an object’s intrinsic (scrap) value.  But when you pay very little over melt value to begin with, any potential loss is strictly limited.

Bullion is obviously the most liquid of tangible assets.  But premiums on gold, silver and platinum bullion have been rather high during 2022 as a result of overwhelming retail demand.  Precious metal refineries and mints simply can’t keep up with demand – something that doesn’t look likely to change in 2023.

It is no fun paying a 25% premium over spot for an ordinary tube of generic 1 ounce silver rounds.

In these cases, I have found that buying rare coins, vintage watches or other relatively liquid, high quality antiques is a savvy investment alternative.  After all, if you are going to pay an elevated premium over intrinsic value anyway, it is much better to buy a piece with some dimension of collectible, historical or cultural value instead of a modern bullion coin or ingot with little hope of ever trading as more than bullion.

As 2022 rolls into 2023, I wanted to let you peak over my shoulder at two of my recent trades that are perfect examples of investing in liquid antiques.

The first purchase was an 1878 U.S. Liberty head $5 half eagle gold coin I found while browsing Etsy.  I’m a big fan of investing in lightly circulated, common date pre-1933 U.S. semi-numismatic gold coins in the current environment.  They combine a solid cornerstone of bullion value with a generous dollop of numismatic potential.  If they can be found for the right price (generally between a 10% and 50% premium over spot), they represent compelling tangible investments.

 

1878 U.S. $5 Half Eagle Gold Coin

Photo Credit: AtlanticCollectiShop

 

Luckily for me, the price was right.

The seller had recently cut the asking price of the coin to $575.  I also had a 5% discount code that the seller had previously sent me after I had added the piece to my watchlist about a week earlier.  After applying the coupon the final price was $546.25, which represented a very reasonable 35% premium over melt value.

I was sold.

This particular gold half eagle ticked a lot of my checkboxes.  First, the piece had been slabbed by PCGS – a well respected third-party grading service.  This not only guarantees the authenticity of the coin, but also provides a professional opinion on its grade.  Third-party grading is a godsend in the world of coin collecting, where small differences in grade can impact the value of a rare coin by hundreds or even thousands of dollars.

In this case, the assigned grade was AU-55.  AU is shorthand for About Uncirculated.  This is considered a higher grade among coin collectors – the last stop before encountering the highest tier of grades (Uncirculated pieces).  According to PCGS, a coin in this condition shows “slight wear on the high points with minor friction in the fields. Luster can range from almost nonexistent to virtually full, but it will be missing from the high points.”

In fact, I often prefer buying AU-55 or AU-58 coins over ostensibly higher graded MS-60 or MS-61 coins of the same type.  Why?  Because lower Mint State (MS) coins are often ugly specimens covered in bagmarks, hairlines and ugly toning.  A nice AU coin will technically have wear, but is often extremely attractive otherwise.

And in coin collecting eye appeal is everything.

In this instance, our gold half eagle exhibited excellent eye appeal characterized by wonderfully original surfaces.  It is common for old gold coins to have been cleaned at some point in the past in a futile attempt to improve their appearance.  This almost always destroys their decades-old patina, resulting in a brassy, unnaturally bright tone.  A cleaned coin without its original patina is always worth less than one with its patina intact.

Happily, our example avoided this unpleasant fate.

Another attractive feature of the gold half eagle I purchased was its date.  Although an 1878 $5 gold piece from the Philadelphia Mint is considered common date, it is still 144 year old and from a near-mythological era in American history.  This coin could have been present during the shootout at the O.K. Corral in 1881.  It might have graced the pocket of inventor Thomas Edison at his Menlo Park laboratory during the 1880s.  It may have witnessed the devastation of the San Francisco earthquake of 1906.

History becomes real.  And you can hold it in your hand.

The final factor that made this U.S. $5 gold coin so desirable was, once again, its encapsulation by PCGS.  The style of PCGS holder that housed the coin is known as an Old Green Holder, or OGH for short.  These are vintage holders that PCGS employed between 1986 and 1998.  They are in high demand by collectors for two different reasons.

 

PCGS OGH & NGC Old Fatty Certified Pre-1933 U.S. Gold Coins for Sale on eBay

(This is an affiliate link for which I may be compensated)

 

First, Old Green Holders are collectible in their own right.  PCGS last issued them around 25 years ago.  The earliest examples are over 35 years old and were present during the infamous late 1980s certified coin bubble.  All Old Green Holders are vintage pieces by now and many collectors enjoy owning them for their own sake, even if they don’t hold particularly rare or expensive coins.

The second reason Old Green Holders are typically bid at a premium is because third-party grading is widely regarded as having been more conservative in the early years of the industry.  This means there is a greater chance that a coin housed in an OGH is a premium quality example within its stated grade.  In rare instances, coins in OGHs have been resubmitted to the grading services and come back as the next higher grade!

Coin grading is ultimately subjective, so some slight variation is to be expected.  This is true even when a coin is evaluated by expert graders.  However, Old Green Holders have developed a durable reputation for housing solidly graded coins.  As a result the market often bids them at a 5% to 10% premium to identical coins with the same numerical grade from the same grading service, but housed in later holders.

Our 1878 U.S. gold half eagle scored particularly well on this metric.

Its OGH is Gen. 3.1, which was issued between 1993 and 1998.  This is especially desirable because it is a gold coin housed in an OGH – and a 19th century gold coin at that!  So if a collector wants an OGH that houses a classic, pre-1933 U.S. gold coin with a lot of eye appeal, this example would be one of the most affordable and accessible candidates available.

A collector could also opt to purchase a similarly priced ($400 to $700) slabbed $1 Liberty/Princess head gold coin or a $2.5 Liberty/Indian head gold coin.  But these specimens would be much smaller and less visually impressive than a $5 half eagle.  On the other hand, $10 Liberty head eagles are another reasonable choice, but also sell for more than twice the price.  A slabbed $10 Liberty head gold coin, even if only in AU-50 condition, would cost at least $1,200 in today’s market – even more if housed in an OGH.

In any case, I can only see pre-1933 semi-numismatic U.S. gold coins becoming more valuable as 2023 progresses – especially those housed in vintage NGC or PCGS holders.

Moving on from the space of numismatics, I have another vintage purchase that I wanted to document.

I sometimes search Etsy and eBay for jewelry categories that are overlooked in today’s fashion world, such as brooches or cufflinks.  Because these types of jewelry are out of style today, it is sometimes possible to find great bargains on vintage or antique pieces.

As I was browsing Etsy, I stumbled across a magnificent pair of estate 18 karat yellow gold leopard-print pattern cufflinks listed for $350.  The first thing that caught my eye about these cufflinks was their unusual leopard pattern motif.  The unique design had been cleverly applied via a crosshatched Florentine finish.  I had never seen anything quite like it before – a pair of Florentine leopard print cufflinks!  It absolutely screamed outrageous 1980s fashion, although they could have been made anywhere from the mid 1970s to the early 1990s.

 

18 Karat Gold Leopard Print Cufflinks

Photo Credit: TheButlerDidItInCB

 

The other interesting thing about the cufflinks is that they were marked 750, a reference to 750/1000 – the purity of the metal.  750 indicates a European origin and is equivalent to 75% fine or 18 karat gold.  This is a high purity gold alloy that is typically used in fine or designer jewelry.

Unfortunately, I was unable to decipher the other hallmarks on the cufflinks, so I couldn’t narrow down the piece’s country of origin or maker.

Now all of this information was mildly intriguing to me, but not nearly enough for me to entertain purchasing the cufflinks.

What did tip the scales for me was when I saw the weight of the piece stated in the item description – 13 grams.  This is a very substantial weight for a pair of cufflinks, reflecting not only the high density of 18 karat gold, but also the excellent build quality of the jewelry.  Cheap karat gold jewelry is almost always as thin and light as the manufacturer can make it in order to save on material costs, while expensive karat gold jewelry is usually much heavier in weight.

13 grams is almost obscenely heavy for a pair of cufflinks.  To give some perspective, I consider less than 6 grams to be a light-weight pair of cufflinks, 6 to 9 grams to be medium-weight and 9 to 12 grams to be heavy-weight.  13 grams is off the high end of the scale!

Now that I had the weight and purity of the piece, I could calculate a scrap value.

In these situations I always assume the true purity of the jewelry in question is lower than its stated/stamped purity.  This is because the enforcement of hallmarking laws varied widely from country to country and it was common in certain regions for some fabricators to cheat on their gold content just a little to squeeze out a slightly higher profit margin.  In this case, I assumed the cufflinks in question were only 70% fine gold instead of 75% fine.

I also applied a 95% payable gold rate on top of the assumed 70% purity.  This is due to the fact that if I ever chose to scrap the jewelry, I would have to pay the refinery their cut.  Each refinery has its own fee schedule, so refining charges can vary.  However, I have found that it is pretty common for legitimate refineries to charge no more than 5% of recoverable gold.  These charges may be lower, especially if you are sending in a larger lot containing several troy ounces or more of recoverable gold.

So the final formula calculation was 13 grams (gross weight) x 0.7 (fineness) x 0.95 (refinery payable gold) x $1710 (gold spot price at the time of purchase) = $475.  Remember, the cufflinks were listed for just $350.  So a $475 scrap value equates to $125 in free gold!

Now I was sold!

 

Vintage 14 Karat & 18 Karat Gold Cufflinks for Sale on eBay

(This is an affiliate link for which I may be compensated)

 

The fact that these 18 karat gold leopard print cufflinks were high quality designer jewelry dripping with opulent 1980s style was simply icing on the cake.  Once purchased, I have the option of either scrapping the cufflinks outright or holding onto them for their potentially higher resale value as vintage jewelry.  For now I’m patiently holding them.

These are the kinds of deals I like the most, although they are very difficult to come by.  After all, few people are willing to sell jewelry below its melt value!

As 2022 comes to a close and 2023 arrives, I am more convinced than ever that high quality antiques represent one of the best investments you can make in today’s treacherous financial markets.  Provided you don’t overpay, I simply don’t see how you can go wrong.

 

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How the International Gold Standard Ended in the 1930s

How the 1930s Global Gold Standard Ended
Photo Credit: LBMA
This Art Deco inspired French 100 franc gold coin was struck in 1936 – the year the international gold standard finally went bust.

I’ve been fascinated by the 1930s collapse of the international gold standard for some time.  Over the course of the 20th century we somehow went from circulating gold coinage being considered normal and “right” by mainstream economists, to a wacky world of perpetually depreciating fiat currencies where even the mention of the word gold gets you labeled a monetary crackpot.

Although a lot of ink has been spilled about how the United States abandoned the gold standard in 1933, there is precious little commentary on how the gold standard fell apart in other countries.  Franklin Delano Roosevelt’s decision to devalue the dollar undoubtedly played a big part in the end of the international gold standard, but it wasn’t the only important event.

I hope to fill in the historical gaps with this article.

Our story begins at the dawn of the 20th century, before the outbreak of World War I.  At this time, almost every nation – or at least every nation that mattered commercially – had adopted what was known as the classical gold standard.  Under the classical gold standard a nation’s monetary unit was defined as a specific weight of fine gold.  For example, the British pound was defined as being 7.3218 grams of pure gold.  Each French franc was fixed at 0.2904 grams of gold.  And the German mark was pegged at 0.3584 grams of gold.

The classical gold standard stipulated that the national central bank had to hold gold coin or bullion in sufficient quantities to back outstanding bank deposits and circulating paper currency.  But no country maintained a 100% coverage ratio.  Instead, most central banks were bound by law to maintain lower coverage ratios that generally ranged between 30% and 60%.  This was done on the (sometimes false) premise that not everyone would want to exchange their paper money for gold simultaneously.

Another tenet of the classical gold standard was that the national currency had to be freely convertible into gold at the stated rate upon demand.  Anyone – citizen or non-citizen – could present a banknote at a bank window and walk out with a gold coin of the appropriate value.  In addition, there could be no capital controls – laws impeding or forbidding the import or export of gold coin or bullion between nations.

For many decades this system worked remarkably well.  Between 1871 and 1914 Europe experienced a commercial and cultural golden age, driven in no small part by the economic stability that the classical gold standard provided.

Then disaster struck in 1914: World War I.

The expenses associated with this global conflict were immense.  It was easily an order of magnitude more expensive than any previous conflict in human history.  Every belligerent nation was forced to suspend gold convertibility once it became clear the war would not end quickly.  The warring countries also ran up massive sovereign debts in an effort to finance wartime expenditures.

But the classical gold standard was such a powerful idea that most countries involved in World War I sought to reestablish convertibility as soon as practicably possible in the aftermath of the conflict.  It is just that in most circumstances these new gold pegs had to be established significantly below pre-war parity.  In other words, the countries spent so much on the conflict that they were forced to devalue their currencies – sometimes by a considerable amount.

 

U.S. 1882 $100 Gold Certificate

Photo Credit: papercut4u
Here is a rare U.S. 1882 $100 Gold Certificate.  Notice the prominent statement on it that reads “gold coin repayable to the bearer on demand”.

 

Great Britain was a notable exception to this rule.  Before the Great War, London had been the undisputed center of global finance.  The British attributed this – at least in part – to the stability of the pound sterling under the classical gold standard.  Every pound had been exchangeable for 0.2354 troy ounces of pure gold since Sir Isaac Newton set the exchange rate back in 1717.  The only interruption in convertibility occurred during the Napoleonic wars of the early 19th century.

The non-convertibility of the pound during World War I was merely seen as another such inconvenience by the British monetary authorities of the time.  Much like in the aftermath of the Napoleonic wars, they strove to reestablish the pound’s pre-war parity to gold and then regain their position at the center of the financial universe.  Winston Churchill – in his capacity as the Chancellor of the Exchequer – did indeed re-peg the pound to its pre-war gold parity in 1925, but London never did manage to regain its throne as the preeminent global capital market.

Instead, a bizarre three-way system formed with New York, Paris and London sharing monetary hegemony in the inter-war period.  The U.S. dollar, British pound and French franc all became internationally important gold-backed currencies in the new post World War I financial landscape.

Although the international gold standard had been largely restored by the latter half of the 1920s, it was not the classical gold standard of the pre-war years.  Most nations chose to “economize” on the use of gold by adopting what was called the “gold exchange standard”.  In this scenario, a nation held its reserves in the form of both gold and foreign currencies exchangeable for gold.  In most cases, this meant U.S. dollars or British pounds.  The French franc was only re-pegged to gold in June 1928 at about 1/5th of its pre-1914 parity.

Another development was that gold coins were struck less frequently by gold standard nations in the inter-war period.  In most places, gold coins no longer circulated in day-to-day commerce as they had before 1914.  These trends towards sovereign mints striking fewer gold coins and those coins circulating less frequently only accelerated once the Great Depression began.

In tandem with this, some countries embraced a modified “gold bullion standard” in which the smallest allowable gold/currency swap typically involved 400 troy ounce London Good Delivery bars.  Great Britain was the leading example of a gold bullion standard in the inter-war years.  In order to exchange your pounds for gold post-1925, you needed to present around £1,700 at the Bank of England.  This represented several years’ salary for a skilled white-collar worker of the time – a small fortune.

In contrast, the classical gold standard used by the U.K. before World War I was much friendlier to the average man on the street.  Before 1914, a mere £1 note was convertible into a gold sovereign coin.

Even though the international gold standard appeared healthy in the late 1920s, in reality intractable problems lay just beneath its glittering façade.  World War I had been characterized by gigantic sovereign debt issuance and accompanying inflation.  Most belligerent nations (with the notable exceptions of Great Britain and the U.S.) chose to devalue their currencies before re-pegging to gold again in the 1920s.  Despite these near universal devaluations, there was still too little gold in the global monetary system to support the mountain of credit and currency that had accumulated.

 

Old U.S. Gold Certificates for Sale on eBay

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After a sharp, but brief, post-war recession that ricocheted through the global economy from 1919 to 1922, the Roaring 1920s began.  This decade-long non-stop party was fueled by alcohol, gambling and debt – with debt being the worst of the three vices by far.  Banks happily gave out loans for the purchase of real estate, stocks and even consumer goods like cars, vacuum cleaners and refrigerators.  If you could fog a mirror, you could get a loan.  And although the Roaring 20s is primarily associated with the U.S., the accompanying credit explosion happened in other developed markets like Western Europe and Japan, too.

The newly established U.S. Federal Reserve made a bad situation worse by recklessly encouraging credit expansion in the face of obvious securities market bubbles.  In July 1927, the then head of the Federal Reserve Bank of New York, Benjamin Strong, gave the already-inflated U.S. stock market a “coup de whiskey” by cutting the Fed’s discount rate.  The artificially low discount rate then spurred additional speculative borrowing in an economy already saturated with debt.

In many ways, this maneuver was no different than the modern-day insanity of the Fed pegging short-term interest rates at 0% in an attempt to get the last sucker to buy an overvalued house in Southern California.

But the reason that Strong pursued this unwise policy is the really astonishing part; he did it as a personal favor to the Bank of England, which wanted lower U.S. interest rates in order to make investing in London at higher rates more favorable!  In other words, the British pound was overextended and the Bank of England had insufficient gold reserves (due to their aggressive 1925 peg to pre-war parity).  By lowering U.S. interest rates, the Fed could drive money (in the form of gold or dollars, either one would work) into the U.K. where they would pad out the pound’s gold coverage ratio.

Benjamin Strong apparently never seriously considered that his actions would lead to even greater speculation in the U.S. stock market, thus ultimately leading to the Crash of 1929 and the Great Depression!

But things were falling apart in the global economy even before the infamous 1929 stock market implosion.  After frenetic price increases during World War I and into the early 1920s, many commodity prices gradually fell for the rest of the decade.  This was due to rampant over-investment and consequent over-production.  Commodities as diverse as sugar, oil, copper, rubber and beef either fell or stagnated in price during the mid-to-late 1920s.

Emerging market countries that relied primarily on commodity exports to power their economies felt the pinch first.

Argentina, a major agricultural producer, abandoned the gold standard in December 1929.  Venezuela, a leading oil exporter, devalued its currency in September 1930.  Commodity export powerhouse Canada didn’t formally break its peg to gold until 1933, but it did put severe restrictions on gold exports starting in 1928.

Although the U.S. stock market crash of October 1929 is widely viewed as the beginning of the Great Depression, the world didn’t experience its worst effects until 1931.  It was only after the major Austrian bank Creditanstalt unexpectedly failed in May 1931 that the economic crisis really intensified.

 

U.S. Double Eagle Gold Coins

Photo Credit: Portable Antiquities Scheme
$20 double eagle gold coins (pictured above) were a primary form of bank reserves in the United States when the country was still on the gold standard.

 

The collapse of this Austrian bank put pressure on German banks, which also began to fail en masse.  In July 1931 Germany nationalized its largest banks, suspended the gold convertibility of the Reichsmark, imposed capital controls and ceased payments on its World War I reparations.  It then capped off this financial disaster by defaulting on its sovereign debt.

The reverberations of this economic catastrophe were felt around the world, but Great Britain was perhaps the hardest hit.

Up until the summer of 1931, most countries made a determined effort to maintain the international gold standard.  It was widely believed by mainstream economists of the time that the gold standard was the monetary cornerstone of global prosperity and had to be retained at all costs.

The Bank of England, in particular, secured multiple rounds of gold loans from the Federal Reserve, the Banque de France and private banking consortiums in an effort to maintain its faltering gold coverage ratio in the wake of the German implosion.  But the pressure on the British pound was unrelenting.  Nervous businessmen, shrewd currency speculators and wary citizens all exchanged pounds for gold (or good-as-gold U.S. dollars and French francs) as quickly as they could.

As summer turned to early fall, the monetary pressures on the British pound became unbearable.  The Bank of England’s gold coverage ratio fell below the critical 25% threshold.  The government was in crisis as it attempted to impose draconian budget cuts in the midst of rising unemployment and widespread economic distress.

The end came suddenly.

On September 16, 1931, – an otherwise nondescript Wednesday – £5 million in gold and foreign exchange reserves exited the U.K.  On Thursday that amount rose to £10 million.  On Friday it was £18 million.  On Saturday – a day when the banks closed early – more than £10 million fled the country looking for safer shores.  On Sunday, September 20th, the Bank of England recommended that the British government break the pound’s peg to gold, which Parliament officially did the very next day.

Great Britain’s devaluation sent shockwaves through the international gold standard community.  The British Empire, with London at its heart, was one of the world’s most important financial centers.  Sterling had maintained a more or less constant link to gold for more than two centuries.  The pound no longer being backed by gold was nearly unthinkable.

 

1920s & 1930s Foreign (Non-U.S.) Gold Coins for Sale on eBay

(This is an affiliate link for which I may be compensated)

 

And yet once it happened, the dam burst.

In the weeks after the British devaluation, country after country followed suit.  India, a British colony at the time, de-pegged from gold at the same time as Britain.  Australia, a former British colony, devalued its pound simultaneously.  So did Ireland.  The Nordic countries – Sweden, Denmark, Norway and Finland – all abandoned the gold standard between September and October 1931.  Nations as diverse as Portugal, Columbia and Hungary also suspended the convertibility of their banknotes into gold in the fall of 1931.  Even Japan discarded the gold standard in December 1931.

Despite the exodus of so many countries from the international gold standard in late 1931, some nations stayed the course.  The United States and France – two of the three great money centers of the time – continued to adhere to the gold standard despite the worsening economic outlook.

But the situation for gold as money was looking increasingly bleak.

All the countries that had debased their currencies along with the U.K. in 1931 now found that their exports were suddenly more competitive in the global markets.  Conversely, nations that continued to embrace gold found their own exports to be artificially expensive.

This financial asymmetry put ever increasing, unrelenting economic pressure on any nation that chose to stick to the international gold standard.

Outside of Europe’s financial center of gravity, only a handful of non-European countries maintained their peg to gold after 1931.  The United States was the most important of these countries.  But South Africa, a major gold producer thanks to its vast Witwatersrand deposits, also stubbornly kept its gold-backed pound intact.

For a little more than a year, the international gold standard struggled on.  But the Great Depression only deepened.

South Africa finally abandoned the gold standard in December 1932.  The United States was not far behind.

I won’t linger on the drama surrounding the United State’s departure from the gold standard in March of 1933.  That has been well-documented elsewhere.  However, I will give a short excerpt from an article I previously wrote about pre-1933 U.S. gold coins:

 

“Prior to the Great Depression of the 1930s, the United States was on the gold standard.  Under this arrangement, dollars were exchangeable for gold at a fixed rate – $20.67 for every troy ounce of gold.  But the financial dislocations created by the Great Depression put incredible strain on this convertibility scheme.  As bank after bank collapsed, average people began withdrawing their money from the financial system fearing that their bank would be next.

Compounding the problem was the fact that there was no insurance for bank deposits; the FDIC did not exist at this point in time.  As a result, the wise move was to remove your funds from any questionable bank rather than risk losing your hard-earned money when it failed.

The financial crisis came to a head in January-February 1933 when two Michigan banks – the First National Bank of Detroit and the Guardian National Bank of Commerce – effectively became insolvent.  The Governor of Michigan was forced to declare a bank holiday in order to avoid a general banking collapse.  This action frightened people in neighboring states who believed their governors may be forced to follow suit.

The crisis quickly spiraled out of control.

One day after his inauguration on March 4, 1933, newly elected president Franklin Delano Roosevelt declared a national bank holiday.  One month later on April 5, 1933, FDR issued his infamous Executive Order #6102 which suspended domestic gold convertibility of the dollar.  In addition, citizens were required by law to surrender their gold coins, bullion and gold certificates to the government.”

 

Interestingly, Canada only formally suspended the convertibility of its paper money into gold on April 10, 1933 – a full month after the U.S. had left the gold standard!  Of course, Canada had already prohibited the export of gold overseas for years beforehand.  But it is still notable that Canadian citizens could exchange their banknotes domestically for a hodgepodge of gold bullion, British gold sovereigns, Canadian gold coins or U.S. gold coins (the type of gold was at the discretion of the bank) for longer than U.S. citizens could.

By the early summer of 1933, the situation for the remaining gold standard countries was getting desperate.

 

1920s & 1930s U.S. Gold Coins for Sale on eBay

(This is an affiliate link for which I may be compensated)

 

Hoping to reach an international agreement to end the Great Depression, the world’s major economic powers held a conference in London from June 12th to July 27th, 1933.  The lifting of tariffs, debt forgiveness and the stabilization of exchange rates were on the agenda, but no agreement was forthcoming.

As the London Economic Conference wound down, a core group of European nations publicly announced that they intended to remain committed to the international gold standard.  These so called “Gold Bloc” nations were the Netherlands, Switzerland, France, Italy, Poland and Belgium, along with the micro-states of Luxembourg and Danzig.

It is interesting to note that two of the Gold Bloc countries – Switzerland and the Netherlands – were using the same gold parity that they had before World War I.  In other words, these countries (which had been neutral during the Great War) did not devalue their currencies after 1914.  They were the last nations on earth to maintain their gold pegs unchanged since the 19th century.  Incidentally, the Swiss Franc and Dutch Guilder were also the world’s strongest currencies during the 20th century.

By the autumn of 1933, the Gold Bloc members – all located in Europe – were nearly the only countries in the world still on the gold standard.  The last of the monetary traditionalists had circled the wagons, hoping their solidarity would be enough to fend off the rising economic storm.

 

Number of Countries on the Gold Standard from 1920 to 1936

 

But it was not to be.

As the Great Depression progressed and country after country left the gold standard, the pressure on those who remained wedded to gold only increased.  Reserves of all types – primarily gold, but also foreign currency and bonds – steadily flowed out of those nations still pegged to gold.

Even France, which had fixed the franc to gold at an artificially low rate in 1928, began to have problems.  This was notable because during the early part of the Great Depression, gold had flowed into the Banque de France due to the undervalued franc.

But during the latter part of the Great Depression, this situation completely reversed.  The once undervalued franc, still pegged to gold, now became overvalued compared to the dollar and the pound.  As a result, gold and other foreign reserves began to flow out of Paris in quantity.

Despite all official pronouncements and new policies, the plight of the Gold Bloc steadily worsened.

By 1935 the Gold Bloc shrank as Belgium, Luxembourg and the Free City of Danzig all devalued their currencies in May of that year.  Now only five lonely countries remained in the Gold Bloc: Switzerland, the Netherlands, France, Italy and Poland.

The beginning of the end for the international gold standard was, curiously enough, geopolitical in nature.  In March 1936, Hitler marched his Nazi armies into the demilitarized Rhineland in clear violation of the Treaty of Versailles.  No one opposed him.  No country in Europe felt it had the military might to do so.

This was a wakeup call to all of Europe.  Peace would not last.  The World War I peace dividend had been squandered during the 1920s and early 1930s.  It was now imperative for all European nations to rebuild their militaries as quickly as possible.

And building armies is not cheap.

The financial markets instantly realized what this meant.  The budgetary fiscal discipline that the Gold Bloc countries had shown up to this point was instantly destroyed.  Everyone knew they would be forced into massive deficit spending in order to reequip their armies against possible German aggression.

Poland was the first to go, breaking its peg with gold in April 1936.  The remaining countries of Switzerland, the Netherlands, France and Italy – the core of the core – all stayed linked to gold during the summer of 1936, desperately looking for a way out of their monetary dilemma.

But there was no solution.

After suffering massive gold outflows all summer, France finally capitulated.  On September 26, 1936 – a Saturday – the convertibility of the French franc was suspended.  It took less than 48 hours for the Netherlands and Switzerland to follow suit.  Italy’s gold peg collapsed about a week later in early October 1936 (although it should be noted that Italy had already placed restrictions on the export of gold way back in 1934).

The Gold Bloc – and with it the international gold standard – had ceased to exist.

However, there was still one nation that purportedly stayed on the gold standard right up until World War II – tiny Albania, situated on Europe’s Adriatic coast.  I say purportedly because information about century-old monetary policies in obscure countries is nearly impossible to verify.  Nonetheless, Albania supposedly maintained a circulating gold currency (the Lek) right up until it was invaded by Mussolini’s Italy in April 1939.

When the international gold standard collapsed, most economists of the time naively believed the break with gold would be temporary.  There was a widespread assumption that once the Great Depression ended and prosperity returned, most nations would happily reestablish their currency’s link to gold.  In fact, nearly all countries that abandoned the gold standard in the mid 1930s still officially defined their currency in terms of gold according to law (just less gold than before devaluing, obviously).

But World War II destroyed any desire, or even ability, to return to the gold standard.  Europe had been the beating heart of gold convertible currencies, but World War II ripped that heart out.  While World War I may have begun the destruction of the international gold standard, World War II definitively killed it.  Our money has never been the same since.

 

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