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An Alluring Enigma – Rough Jade

An Alluring Enigma - Rough Jade
A 1.2 pound (556 gram) block of very high quality, rough nephrite jade from British Columbia.  Notice the bright, evenly distributed green color and the obvious translucence near the edges where the material is thinner.  These are both indicators of good quality jade.

We like to think we have it all figured out these days.  The disciplines of science, engineering and computing have all converged to give us wonders beyond comprehension.  And while the advances of modern technology are truly amazing, they do tend to bleed a bit of the color from the world.  When science presents an answer for every conceivable question, doesn’t that rob the universe of just a little of its beauty and mystery?

Maybe, but mystery still abounds for those who seek it.  For example, jade – an exotic green hardstone venerated for millennia by a multitude of pre-modern cultures – still retains all the complexity and enigma of untamed nature.

There is simply nothing like holding a block of fine, rough jade in your hands.  Its softly mottled, translucent colors mesmerize the eyes even as your fingertips dance across its dense, glassy surface.  Jade reflects light in a unique way, giving its surfaces a slightly diffused, almost dreamy appearance.  And yet jade’s ethereal appearance is really a clever deception; the cryptic stone is actually harder than steel.

Jade is perhaps nature’s most perfect material, a thing that man in all his centuries of striving has still not equaled, much less surpassed.  Is it any wonder that it has been revered in East Asian cultures for thousands of years?

The Chinese, in particular, have an affinity for the precious material that is truly legendary.  A telling ancient Chinese proverb states that “Gold is valuable, but jade is priceless.”  The Chinese believed – with some justification – that jade embodied heavenly perfection on earth.

Other sophisticated Pacific Rim cultures, including the Korean Silla Dynasty, the great pre-Columbian Mesoamerican civilizations and the New Zealand Maori, have also revered jade over the centuries.  The Chinese Qing Dynasty, in particular, was renowned for creating prized masterpieces in jade.  But it was Mughal India that arguably produced the very finest jade carvings of all time – foremost among them the wondrously delicate and fanciful Shah Jahan Cup.

Surprisingly, jade comes in a multitude of different colors in addition to its well-known green – everything from white to black to blue to lilac.  The term jade also actually refers to two different, mineralogically distinct varieties – nephrite jade and jadeite jade.  Both of these types have very similar physical characteristics and are considered true jade.

Technically, nephrite jade is a calcium magnesium-iron hydroxyl silicate, while jadeite jade is a sodium aluminum silicate.  These characteristic chemical compositions give nephrite and jadeite slightly different micro-crystalline structures.  But these differences are largely inconsequential to everyone except for gemologists; all jade possesses amazing physical characteristics.

Jade’s tenacity or toughness – its ability to resist breaking, chipping or cracking – is legendary.  It is substantially tougher than steel; a blow strong enough to deform steel might leave a similarly sized piece of jade undamaged.  This mythical attribute was widely exploited by pre-historic and ancient peoples who carved jade into highly functional axe heads and knife blades.  The treasured material’s fabled toughness has also allowed delicate jade carvings from distant cultures to survive centuries of time without so much as a single chip.

As if its extreme toughness were not remarkable enough, jade is also exceptionally hard.  On the Mohs scale of mineral hardness, jade registers between 6 and 7, versus just 5.5 for most types of steel and glass.  It also compares favorably with quartz, which has a Mohs hardness of 7.  In fact, jade is so hard that the term “jade carving” is actually a misnomer.  Jade is simply too hard and tough to carve effectively.  Instead carvers slowly and painstakingly abrade rough jade into the desired shape using ultra-hard garnet, corundum or diamond grit.

 

Untreated Rough Guatemalan Jadeite Jade for Sale on Etsy

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Historically, the nephrite jade used in ancient and medieval Chinese art was found in the Xinjiang province of western China.  Jade from this source was known as Khotan or Hetian jade.  In the 18th century China began to import jadeite jade from adjacent Burma (now renamed Myanmar).

Today, most good quality nephrite jade originates from the imposing mountains of British Columbia, Alaska, Wyoming, New Zealand and certain parts of California and Russia.  Some fine jadeite jade is also found in Guatemala, a source once exploited by the ancient Mayan civilization.

Jade is usually found in the river valleys of remote, rugged mountains, rendering mining a frustrating, backbreaking endeavor.  A substantial amount of heavy equipment is used in jade extraction, such as industrial-sized hydraulic spreaders and diamond saws.  Jade, in the form of water-worn pebbles or rocks, has traditionally been mined from alluvial (river) deposits.  Sometimes jade boulders weighing several tons are found, but they only rarely contain fine material.

Intensive mining activity due to the insatiable global demand for jade has exhausted many alluvial deposits of first-rate material.  Therefore, jade mining has recently begun to switch over to primary, in-ground deposits.  This development has driven up exploration and extraction costs considerably, but is necessary to maintain adequate supplies of high quality jade to the market.

Considering that it is possible to buy good quality rough jade by the pound or kilogram, the uninitiated may conclude that jade is a common material.  This would be a woefully incorrect assumption.  Jade mining powerhouse British Columbia – currently the world’s major source of nephrite jade – only produces around 400 tons (362 metric tons) of the coveted stone per annum.  This amount might seem impressively large until one learns that global annual gold production is close to 3,000 tons (2720 metric tons) per annum.

In addition, China’s traditional source of jade – the remote Xinjiang province – is nearing exhaustion today.  And jadeite jade has traditionally been even rarer than nephrite jade, with Myanmar and Guatemala the only significant producers today.  Good jade is astonishingly difficult to find and only getting rarer as time passes.

 

Rough Jade Blocks & Slabs for Sale on eBay

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Predictably, jade prices have exploded over the last decade, increasing by approximately 10-fold between 2005 and 2015.  This is largely due to skyrocketing demand from China’s burgeoning middle class and nouveau riche.  Jade has always been central to Chinese culture and the country’s recent prosperity has translated directly into massively increased demand.

As an unfortunate side effect the supply of China’s native Khotan/Hetian jade has begun drying up, leading to its counterfeiting on a truly grand scale.  But this presents the alternative asset investor with a unique buying opportunity.  North American, Central American and Australian/New Zealand jades (and to a lesser extent Russian jades) have been somewhat overlooked in the marketplace, leaving them underpriced relative to traditional Chinese and Burmese jades.

When investing in rough jade I believe it is advisable to pass on pieces that are thinner than about 1/3 of an inch (8 millimeters) in any one dimension.  It is difficult for an artist to carve a thin jade slab into a desirable statue, cabochon or bangle.  However specimens of stellar quality are an exception to this rule.

Avoid purchasing specimens with prominent or numerous fractures.  These flaws are not only unattractive, but may also indicate durability issues.  A little-known quality test is to closely examine any cut edge that has a 90° angle.  If the edge looks razor sharp with little or no chipping, then you know you have a good quality jade.  Conversely, if the edge is ragged or heavily chipped, then the jade is probably of lower quality.

Keep in mind that although jade can be dyed, waxed or bleached, most North American and Central American rough jade is not treated.  This is one of the major benefits of buying this kind of rough jade.  However, don’t make the mistake of believing that no North American/Central American rough jade is treated.  If it looks too good to be true, especially at a bargain price, then it probably is.

For superior returns, avoid purchasing jade that has unappealing or lackluster colors.  However, it is important not to confuse poor color with unpolished surfaces.  Rough jade is often not given a smooth, finely polished surface because it is assumed it will be further processed in the future.  Most rough jade sellers will wet their specimens with water before photographing them in order to convey a truer sense of the stone’s final appearance when fully polished.  This is perfectly acceptable if properly disclosed.

 

Untreated Rough Siberian Nephrite Jade for Sale on Etsy

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Jade pieces with evenly distributed, attractive colors or pleasing mottling are most desirable.  Look for specimens that are at least 3 or 4 ounces (about 100 grams) in weight, although this rule can be relaxed for exceptional pieces.  Don’t be scared away by irregular or asymmetrically-shaped rough; these odd shapes are often an asset to the skilled jade carver.

Although jadeite jade is rarer than nephrite jade, don’t let this be the sole, or even primary, criterion that drives your decision making.

Don’t feel the need to limit yourself to only green jade.  Other colors may have similar, or even better, investment potential compared to the more traditional, green-hued jades.  Most importantly, look for jade that is at least somewhat translucent.  Translucency is a reasonable proxy for overall quality in jade.  The more translucent a piece of jade, the finer – and hence more desirable and expensive – it is.

Rough jade is at once alluring and mysterious, yet also eminently tangible.  It is also surprisingly affordable, if sourced from North America or Central America.

A small 3 to 5 ounce (85 to 140 gram) block of medium quality rough jade can be purchased for only $40 or $50.  Prices escalate with both size and quality with multi-pound (one kilogram and heavier) specimens costing $200 to $800.  Truly gargantuan pieces can easily exceed $1,000, as can the very finest specimens.

Exceptionally transparent or unusually colored blocks of jade are rare and will command whatever price the market will bear at that time.  A judicious investment in rough jade may be a savvy way to participate in the extraordinary economic growth of China.  A stone of unusually fine properties, jade is definitely an asset worth owning.

 

Read more in-depth Antique Sage bullion & gemstone investment guides here.


Desperately Seeking Silver – Continental European Silver

Desperately Seeking Silver - Continental European Silver
A sumptuous place-setting of gilt 19th century (pre-1888) German silver flatware. The set is marked “Freidberg 12 Loth Silb”, indicating a fineness of 75%. These pieces are very heavy and ornately decorated – both signs of good quality silverware.

The mobile computing revolution has taken over the world – and our lives along with it. Smart phones, tablets and laptops are ubiquitous in today’s society. They keep us connected to the world in ways unimaginable a mere few decades ago

But some would argue that they really hold us captive, making us slaves to work, the 24 hour news cycle and even our friends. Somehow, amid all the texts, tweets and pics we forgot our birthright.

You will not bequeath your iPhone to your grandchildren. Your Amazon Kindle tablet will not become an heirloom treasured by future generations. But there are some parts of our illustrious patrimony that can be readily reclaimed by those who are willing. Among them is beautiful, useful and durable Continental European silverware, an investment that will surely be cherished for many generations to come.

Continental European silver is the perfect intersection of pragmatic serviceability, uncompromising old-world craftsmanship, and hidden value. For hundreds of years, solid silver flatware and hollowware has been used as a store of value and a signifier of noble status. And today it is possible to acquire fine Continental European silver originating from France, Germany, Russia or other European nations for relatively modest sums.

Most pieces encountered today were manufactured between the early 19th century and the mid 20th century, although it is still possible to occasionally find specimens from the 18th century. In contrast to the British sterling standard of 92.5% fineness, Continental European silver was crafted in purities varying from 75% fine to over 95% fine. Regardless of these inconsequential differences in fineness standards, Continental European silver can easily match, or even surpass, British silver in terms of workmanship and artistry.

Continental European silver is usually less expensive than its British equivalents. The primary reason for this is because Great Britain has a very consistent and well documented hallmarking system that has been in place since medieval times. This makes British sterling silver easily attributable to not only maker, but also city and year of manufacture.

Continental European silver, in comparison, has a plethora of confusing and poorly recorded hallmarks that can make identification challenging, or sometimes even impossible. As a result, collectors of high quality silver have traditionally tended to gravitate towards the more easily identified British pieces, driving up their prices. This has created a unique opportunity for the savvy connoisseur to acquire stunningly beautiful Continental European silver at very attractive prices.

 

Antique French Silver-Gilt Tableware for Sale on eBay

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Often gilt, French silver drips with remarkably beautiful floral, scrollwork or ribbon motifs. It possesses an organic je ne sais quoi that appeals to the most discerning of collectors. The most prominent French silversmith is the venerable firm of Puiforcat, a maker of highly coveted silver for over 150 years. The French hallmarking system was one of the first to go decimal in the world, doing so shortly after the French Revolution.

There are primarily two different French silver finenesses that are encountered: first standard at 95% silver and second standard at 80% silver. Both are denoted on most items by the Minerva’s head hallmark accompanied by either the number “1” or “2” beside the head of the goddess, depending on the standard.

German silversmiths produced silver in similar, although ever so subtly more reserved, styles compared to their French counterparts. However, Germany produced silver to just as high a standard as the French. German silver tends to feel a bit heavier and more solid than similar pieces by French silversmiths.

The pre-1888 fineness standard for silver in the German States was the loth (or lot) system, with 16 loth corresponding to 100% fine silver. Usually German silver is found hallmarked with 12, 13 or 14 loth purities, which translates into finenesses of 75%, 81.25%, and 87.5%, respectively. In 1888 Germany adopted a unified hallmarking system that employed the familiar decimal standard. A crescent moon and crown hallmark beside the number “800”, representing 80% fineness, is the typical mark found on these later pieces.

 

Antique German Silver Tableware for Sale on eBay

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Russian silver usually exhibits bright-cut designs in a flat, two-dimensional style that is almost medieval in its texture. Russian silversmiths also indulged in profuse gilding of their creations, recalling the gold-leafed onion domes that are so iconic in Russian architecture.

Russian silver’s other trademark techniques are niello and cloisonné enamel. Niello is a mixture of silver, copper, lead and sulfur that is selectively applied to the surface of a silver object, producing a high contrast between the hematite-colored niello and bright silver.

Cloisonné enamel is produced by using wire to segment the surface of a metal object into many different cells to form a pattern or design. Powdered enamel is then carefully put into the cells, each one with a different color. The entire piece is then fired in an oven at a high temperature, causing the powdered enamel to liquefy and become glass-like. The result is a stunningly colorful glass-mosaic-over-metal effect.

These unusual techniques cause Russian silver to be very distinctive from what was produced in the rest of Europe contemporaneously.

Russian silver falls into two broad categories: pieces from the Soviet Era, post 1917, and those from the Czarist era, pre-1917. At the current time, silver from the Czarist period is in high demand and hence more expensive than silver from the Soviet period. It should also be noted that Russian pieces are generally somewhat more expensive than other Continental European silver.

The Czarist Russian fineness standard was based on 96 Zolotniks, which equals 100% pure silver. The two alloys usually encountered are 84 or 88 Zolotniks, equivalent to 87.5% and 91.67% silver, respectively. As in so many other countries, hallmarking was switched over to the decimal system in the 20th century during the Soviet era.

 

Antique Russian Silver Tableware for Sale on eBay

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A magnificent set of gleaming Continental European silverware at an upscale dinner party conveys the elegance and sophistication of its host far better than an iPhone. And one doesn’t have to be a member of a centuries old noble family to purchase such pieces either.

Flatware and small hollowware items start around only $100, while full tea sets or 12-person place-settings can run into the several thousand dollar range. And sometimes these sets can even be found in their original presentation boxes, something that boosts their desirability and value even further.

In a time when most people clamor for the dubious benefits of the latest tech gadget, devoting some money to a set of exquisite Continental European silver will surely prove a shrewd financial move.

 

Read more in-depth Antique Sage antique silver investment guides here.


Stacked Wealth – Vintage Silver Bullion Bars

Stacked Wealth - Vintage Silver Bullion Bars
An assortment of poured vintage silver bullion bars in 5 and 20 troy ounce sizes manufactured by SilverTowne, JPM (Jackson Precious Metals) and Johnson Matthey. The SilverTowne bars pictured are actually vintage issues, fabricated before the company resumed pouring new silver bars recently.

Promises, promises, promises. The world is full of promises that aren’t kept. Lovers softly coo sweet lies to their partners. Politicians solemnly swear to implement government reforms they know will never happen. Friends cheerfully, if falsely, pledge to reimburse you for their excessively high bar tab after cajoling you into paying.

Likewise, the financial world is full of promises that won’t be kept either. The city of Detroit’s pensions, Lehman Brother’s commercial paper and Greece’s sovereign debt all are pertinent, timely examples of financial promises broken.

And there is undoubtedly more where that came from. The old saying still holds true, “What cannot be paid back, will not be paid back.” However, there is at least one investment that will earnestly keep its vows: vintage silver bullion bars.

Possessing many outstanding properties, silver is the quintessential metal. It is not only mesmerizingly lustrous but also extraordinarily reflective. Silver is the best conductor of both heat and electricity among all elements. Its exceptionally high density (10.5 grams per cubic centimeter) exceeds that of both copper (9.0 g/cm3) and iron (7.9 g/cm3). Unlike most metals, silver is extremely resistant to chemical attack, tarnishing only in the presence of highly corrosive substances such as ozone, sulfur or the halogens (like chlorine).

These compelling physical properties have contributed to silver’s use in a plethora of industrial, scientific and monetary functions. But perhaps silver’s most ancient use – as a store of value – is still its best. A vintage silver bar, with its unmistakable heft and soft metallic glow, is the near perfect embodiment of tangible wealth.

There is something truly mesmerizing about vintage silver bullion bars. Their chunky style, rounded corners and slightly irregular surfaces are immediately, viscerally attractive. An old silver bar’s finish may be wonderfully patinaed from decades of storage, or as seductively lustrous as the day it left the mint, or even subtly frosted as if coated by a million tiny sugar crystals. Bullion bars evoke time-honored financial traditions, when physical wealth could be firmly held in the palm of your hand. Vintage silver bullion bars gently whisper to be treasured and possessed.

 

Poured Vintage Silver Bullion Bars for Sale on eBay

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Silver bars are fabricated in three basic ways; they are struck, extruded or poured. Most modern bullion bars are made via striking or extrusion. Today, smaller bars are usually struck while larger bars can be either struck or extruded. Silver bars created via striking or extrusion typically have very crisp details and a mirror like finish. They are unmistakably machine-made and lack the charming surfaces and mellow patina of older hand poured bars. The striking and extrusion methods, being amenable to automation, have almost completely displaced pouring as a manufacturing method.

In contrast, poured bars are created via casting molten silver into a mold and then allowing it to cool. Finally, the bar is removed from the mold and carefully struck with its weight, fineness and maker’s mark. Poured bars are oftentimes hand cast and thus significantly more labor intensive to make than struck or extruded bars. This has resulted in few refineries continuing the venerable tradition of fabricating silver bars in the old style.

One highly coveted type of poured silver bar frequently encountered is the “loaf” shape bar. These loaf-style bars are very thick and chunky with extremely rounded corners. This gives them the characteristic shape of a miniature loaf of bread. Another shape commonly found is the “kit-kat” style bar. These bars, while also thick and chunky, have somewhat sharper corners, giving them the form of an oversized kit-kat candy bar. Some vintage kit-kat style silver bars were extruded instead of poured. However, if genuinely older, these extruded kit-kat bars are still quite desirable.

 

Loaf Style Vintage Silver Bullion Bars for Sale on eBay

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The 1960s to the early 1980s were the heyday of poured vintage silver bullion bars. As the global inflation rate started to rise in the early 1960s, people began looking for alternative, inflation-resistant investments. Consequently, demand for small and medium sized silver bars skyrocketed during this period. Private refiners and mints thrived as the inexorably rising price of precious metals translated into healthy demand for their products.

However, it all quickly unwound after silver prices experienced a bubble peak early in 1980. The public reacted to the bubble by quickly dumping its collective silver stash on the market. This led to massive amounts of fine sterling silverware, rare silver coins and beautiful vintage poured silver bars being thrown into the melting pot. It is a tragedy that most of these unique, old silver bars ended up exiting refineries as soulless 1,000 troy ounce COMEX good delivery bars.

A wide variety of reputable refineries, both large and small, manufactured poured vintage silver bullion bars. Some of the old bar makers frequently encountered include Engelhard, Johnson Matthey, GA (Golden Analytical), Star Metals, NCM (Nevada Coin Mart), JPM (Jackson Precious Metals), Academy, CCM (California Crown Mint) and Phoenix Precious Metals. All of these companies are now either defunct or no longer produce silver bars.

Engelhard, for example, was the world’s leading silver bar manufacturer from the 1960s until the mid 1980s. But the company only made poured silver bars earlier in that period, later switching over to struck/extruded bars. Engelhard completely ceased silver bar production after the mid 1980s.

Due to high demand, a handful of companies have resumed production of poured silver bars. SilverTowne L.P., Scottsdale Mint, Prospector’s Gold & Gems, Monarch Precious Metals, Atlantis Mint, Yeager’s Poured Silver and Bison Bullion currently (as of 2015) produce poured silver bars. These seven refineries’ poured silver bars are recent and should not be confused with genuine, older poured bars.

Although they are not investment vehicles on par with vintage issues, these newer poured bars are still an exceptionally beautiful way to own silver bullion and might acquire collector’s status over time. Because they are still being manufactured today, pricing is competitive with other modern struck and extruded bars on the market.  If you are interested in finding out more about new poured silver bars you can read my article titled “The Investment Case for Hand-Poured Silver Bars“.

 

New Poured Silver Bars for Sale on eBay

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Poured silver bars typically range in size from 1 troy ounce to 100 troy ounces. Common sizes are 1, 5, 10, 20, 25, 50 and 100 troy ounces. 1,000 troy ounce poured bars do exist, but are industrial in size (almost 70 pounds each) and cost (approximately $15,000 with spot at $15 per ounce). These 1,000 ounce behemoths should be avoided due to their limited collectability. Similarly, very small 1 troy ounce bars lack the universal investment appeal of slightly larger sizes. Stepping up to a minimum of 2 or 3 ounce bars easily remedies this minor issue.

Occasionally you will come across odd weight silver bars. For example, the bar might be stamped “10.34 troy oz.” These odd weight bars are an almost certain indicator of an older, vintage bar that is both unique and desirable.

Vintage silver bullion bars have compelling investment potential, especially when considering their impressive appearance and high intrinsic value. Premiums over bullion value range from about 25% on the low end to over 300% for extremely rare types. Larger bars typically have lower premiums than smaller bars, but will cost more because of their higher intrinsic value.

Pricing realistically begins around $120 for investment grade silver bars weighing 2 to 5 ounces. Imposingly monolithic 100 troy ounce bars the size of a small brick can easily run from $2,000 to $4,000, depending on rarity (with spot silver at $15 per ounce). Lovers, politicians and even friends may prove unreliable, but vintage silver bullion bars will always remain true.

 

Read more in-depth Antique Sage bullion & gemstone investment guides here.

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Read more in-depth Antique Sage antique silver investment guides here.


Glittering Dreams – Investment Grade Estate Jewelry

Glittering Dreams - Investment Grade Estate Jewelry
This 14-karat yellow gold and sapphire ring is from the early 20th century. The intricate gold scrollwork and good quality blue sapphire of about 0.80 carats in weight elevate this piece to investment grade status.

There is a lot to be said for tradition. After all, traditions are only developed after decades, and sometimes centuries, of honing and polishing cultural precepts. Our ancestors’ venerable customs have shaped the most important events of our lives, from graduations to weddings to holidays.

And one of mankind’s most enduring customs is the idea of jewelry as a store of value. This might seem like an anachronism in the modern world, hopelessly adrift among the glittering neon lit skyscrapers and beckoning digital alleys of the current age. But that assessment could not be further from the truth.

Originally, the term “the family jewels” was not a euphemism for the male genitalia, but actually referred to the crystallized wealth of affluent, aristocratic dynasties. While most of the middle class has never understood the importance of this time-honored method of wealth building, today’s rich wisely remember the advice of their ancestors and continue to store a portion of their net worth in investment quality jewelry.

Portable, valuable and seductively radiant, many such jewels have become the stuff of legend. The Dresden Green, The Timur Ruby and The Crimson Star of Siberia are all famous jewels that elicit images of ancient nobility, ornate palaces and above all, lavish wealth.

Mysterious, exotic and alluring, a large, vibrant colored gem is the soul of a high-end piece of jewelry. Consequently, desirable investment grade estate jewelry will usually be mounted with one or more fine, sizable colored stones. In most instances, very high quality jewelry becomes a means to display the attributes of the exceptional gems mounted in it. This is emphasized by the fact that a typical piece of investment quality jewelry will derive over 75% of its intrinsic value from the gems mounted in it.

Oftentimes cheaper jewelry is mounted with many smaller stones in an attempt to imitate the look of a more expensive piece set with fewer, larger gems. Do not be fooled by this trick; a single, large gem of a given weight is worth many, many times more than a parcel of smaller stones that equals the same weight. Actually, large colored stones can possess such incredible value density that it is not unusual for a very high quality piece of jewelry to easily fit into the palm of one’s hand, yet be worth as much as a car…or even a house!

However, only the finest of gems are appropriate as investment vehicles. For example, the big three colored stones – emeralds, rubies and sapphires – are renowned for their unparalleled beauty, unsurpassed durability and instant name recognition. Jewelry set with these stones qualifies as investment grade if the largest gem exceeds 0.50 carats in weight. Unfortunately, high quality emerald, ruby and sapphire jewelry that is reasonably priced has gotten much harder to find over the last couple of decades.

 

Ruby, Sapphire & Emerald Estate Jewelry for Sale on eBay

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Other colored stones, such as aquamarine, tanzanite, spinel, tourmaline, imperial topaz and some fancy garnet varieties (spessartite or rhodolite), are exciting and compelling alternatives to the big three. These gem varieties offer the promise of rapid price appreciation as they inevitably become more widely known. However, these stones must be larger to qualify as investment grade, preferably at least 1 carat.

Another group of ultra-rare stones also exists, consisting of colored diamond, alexandrite, tsavorite garnet and demantoid garnet. Due to their extreme rarity, these glamorous gems must only exceed 0.30 carats in order to be considered investment quality. The buyer must beware though. Because of their great value, this last group of gems is often counterfeited with synthetics or other imitations.

Some colored stones like amethyst, citrine and blue topaz are too common to be investable and should be avoided. Please note that the minimum investable sizes for stones given are approximations that will vary based on the quality and number of gems present. The finer the stone, the smaller the size that is acceptable. Likewise, if a greater number of gems are present (like in a tennis bracelet), then even estate jewelry with smaller sized jewels than those listed above can still be desirable.

A word about white diamonds is in order. While they are beautiful accent stones, it is best to avoid them as the main stone in an investment-oriented piece. White diamonds are very common relative to fine colored stones. You can test this by walking into any jewelry store and comparing the number of large diamonds set in jewelry with the number of large, non-synthetic, high-quality rubies, emeralds or sapphires.

The number of diamonds will far outweigh the numbers of these colored gems available. This suggests that colored stones have a greater capacity for future price appreciation vis-a-vis white diamonds.  While this doesn’t completely disqualify white diamonds from investment consideration, one should only purchase them with caution.

If a colored gem is the soul of a high-end piece of jewelry, then the setting is its temple. Precious metals have exemplary properties for this role; they are dense, tarnish-free, and radiate a soft, almost mystical sheen. Accordingly, platinum, palladium or 14 karat (or higher) gold are all fitting materials for investment grade jewelry settings.

Gold needs no introduction, having been worshipped throughout the ages for its immutable, rich yellow glow. In contrast to the ubiquity of gold, lustrous-gray platinum is much rarer and hence usually found in very expensive, high-end jewelry.   Silvery palladium, another platinum group metal, is relatively new to jewelry and is consequently rarely found in older pieces.

 

Aquamarine Estate Jewelry for Sale on eBay

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It is important to note that gold of less than 14 karats (58.3%) fine is not investable because the alloy becomes increasingly susceptible to corrosion and tarnish under that level of purity. Gold-plated or gold-filled alloys as well as the plebeian metal silver should all be avoided for investment purposes. Due to the remarkable density of precious metals, a high quality jewelry setting will be solid looking and feel fairly heavy relative to its size.

An adept way to inspect a setting is to turn it over and look at the reverse. If it is finely finished, the setting should look almost as good on the back as it does on the front.

The vast majority of estate jewelry in the world is not investment grade. For example, in a typical chain jewelry store none of the inventory could appropriately be called investment grade. In a high-end jewelry store, some pieces might be considered investment grade, but be priced too high to make good investment sense. If you were to peruse the estate jewelry selection of a better antique store, perhaps one in one hundred pieces would be both reasonably priced and qualify as investment quality.

Obviously, real investment grade estate jewelry is difficult to find, affirming just how desirable and rare these items really are. Great men have opposed mighty empires and waged desperate battles in order to possess important gems. Lofty women have murdered rivals and seduced the powerful for a chance to cradle these dazzling jewels within their hands.

For centuries the wealthy and influential have understood the beguiling attraction of these persuasive luxury assets. And with prices starting at only $400, almost anyone can enjoy the rarity, beauty and investment potential of investment quality estate jewelry.

 

Read more in-depth Antique Sage vintage jewelry investment guides here.