Estate Jewelry

Photo Credit: coins-jewelry-collectibles

Art Deco Pearl & Sapphire Swedish Ring

Buy It Now Price: $284.99 (price as of 2019; item no longer available)

Pros:

-Art Deco opulence simply radiates from this 18 karat yellow gold Swedish ring from 1925 that is set with a central pearl flanked by accent sapphires.

-This antique ring is a size 6.5 on the U.S. sizing scale, meaning its opening measures about 16.9 mm (0.6654 inches) across.  It also weighs in at a healthy 2.25 grams (0.0723 troy ounces), which is fairly typical for a petite high karat gold ring.

-This Swedish ring is hallmarked “18K”, indicating it was made from solid 18 karat (.750 fine) gold.  The ring also has a separate, three-crown hallmark, which is the Swedish state guarantee that the stated fineness is correct.

-This 18 karat gold ring was crafted by the firm of Guldvaruaktiebolaget Dahlgren & Co., a well-regarded Swedish jeweler that operated in Mamlö from the mid 19th century to at least circa 1970.

-We can precisely date this Swedish ring to the year 1925 because of the “Y7” hallmark on the inside of the shank.  The Swedish hallmarking system employed a unique, two-digit alpha numeric date code that was applied to both silverware and gold and silver jewelry.

-18 karat gold is superior to the more well known 14 karat gold is pretty much every way.  The 18 karat alloy is purer, less prone to oxidation and has a richer yellow color compared to its more common 14 karat counterpart.

-This Art Deco era ring is set with a good quality, single 4.8 mm pearl.  By the mid 1920s, round cultured pearls had been available in the marketplace for about 5-10 years.  So there is a chance that this Swedish ring is set with a more desirable and valuable natural pearl, although we can’t know for sure without conducting an X-ray test to view the internal structure of the pearl.

-The ring’s accompanying accent sapphires are almost certainly natural, which is always welcome in a piece of Art Deco jewelry.  1920s era jewelry is often set with synthetics instead of natural stones.

-The quality of the goldwork in this Sweden ring is absolutely top-notch – a very desirable trait in jewelry settings.  There is no pitting or burring on the shank and the prongs holding the central pearl are delicate and unobtrusive while still being completely secure.

-It is becoming increasingly tough to find investment grade antique gold jewelry for less than about $400 these days.  So I can unequivocally recommend this Swedish Art Deco masterpiece for only $285.

Cons:

-I suppose the only possible con is that the current sale will end and the price will go back up to $300.  Even then, this antique Swedish ring is well worth the price.

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Photo Credit: Authentic Jewelry and Coin

Old Mine Cut Edwardian Diamond Ring, Circa 1905

Buy It Now Price: $1,079.99 (price as of 2019; item no longer available)

Pros:

-This Edwardian diamond ring exudes Gilded era elegance with 9 sparkling old mine cut diamonds mounted in an 18 karat gold checkerboard setting.

-The face of this luscious antique ring measures 12.4 mm (0.49 inches) tall by 11.7 mm (0.46 inches) wide.  The entire ring weighs a substantial 4.22 grams (0.1356 troy ounces), which is quite a lot for a ring this size.

–Old mine cut diamonds were a cushion-shaped diamond cut popular from the early 19th century until around 1910.  They were defined by high crowns, deep pavilions, and large culets.  These unique proportions endowed old mine cut diamonds with a dazzling fire and charming warmth that simply can’t be found in modern brilliant cut diamonds.

-The seller estimates the average weight of each H-I color, VVS2-VS1 clarity diamond in the ring to be around 0.18 carats, for a grand total carat weight of 1.62.  From the measurements of the ring given, I have conservatively calculated that the diamonds weigh between 0.10 and 0.20 carats each, for a total guesstimated weight of 1.35 carats.  This discrepancy (1.35 carats versus 1.62 carats) is minor, but underscores the fact that the stated carat weight of a mounted stone is always an approximation.

–The Edwardian period was wedged in-between the death of Queen Victoria around the year 1900 and the start of World War I in 1914.  Although it didn’t persist for very long, the Edwardian era was famous for its glorification of wealth, luxury and the aristocracy – think Downton Abbey.

-I estimate the melt value of the gold in this Edwardian diamond ring to be around $170 (with the spot price of gold at $1,335 an ounce.)  While the old mine cut diamonds are harder to value, I think they should be worth at least $500 a carat (on a bad day) for a total value of $675.

-This Edwardian diamond ring is in great condition, with no excessive wear, damage or obvious repairs.  In addition, it features superb goldwork with no messy solder or other distractions – an incredibly unusual situation for a ring that is over a century old.

-Totaling the value of the ring’s gold and diamonds gives an aggregate intrinsic value of nearly $850.  This is only $230 off the asking price, which is a pleasant surprise.  It is rare to find quality antique jewelry selling for anywhere close to its intrinsic value these days.

-The ring’s gold grid pattern conveys a sense of solidity while the old mine cut diamonds allow it to retain that characteristic Edwardian feeling of etherealness.  This might seem like a contradiction, but this antique ring manages to pull it off brilliantly nonetheless.

–Edwardian jewelry is becoming increasingly scarce and desirable as the years pass, setting the stage for an inevitable upward readjustment in value.

-At an asking price of less than $1,100, this Edwardian diamond ring would be a great choice for the antique collector, investor or jewelry buff.  I cannot stress how rare it is to find such a superb piece of antique jewelry for such a low price.

Cons:

-This Edwardian diamond ring is set exclusively with melee stones.  These are defined as faceted diamonds weighing less than 0.20 carats (or 20 points) each.  Melee diamonds are primarily used as accent pieces in modern jewelry because they cost less per carat than larger diamonds.  I don’t think the primary motivation for using melee diamonds in this wonderful old ring was monetary, but aesthetic.  However, the fact remains that melee diamonds (even old mine cut melee diamonds) are worth less per carat than their larger, non-melee equivalents.

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Photo Credit: Bottom-Fisher Finds

18K Gold Retro Cufflinks with Rubies and Sapphires

Buy It Now Price: $684.95 (price as of 2019; item no longer available)

Pros:

-These 1950s Retro cufflinks are beautifully crafted from textured 18 karat yellow gold and set with natural, untreated rubies and sapphires.

-Each cufflink measures 0.69 inches (17 mm) long by 0.44 inches (11 mm) wide, while the pair tip the scales at a hefty 9.5 grams (0.3054 troy ounces).

-Retro jewelry was popular from the late 1930s into the 1950s.  It was characterized by bright, bold looks, multi-colored gold and a willingness to forgo diamonds in order to experiment with less expensive gemstones (like citrines, aquamarines and topazes).

-The rubies and sapphires set in these cufflinks are undoubtedly completely natural, untreated stones.  We know this because the cufflinks were made in the late 1940s or early 1950s, before corundum treatments became widespread in the 1970s.  Furthermore, the inclusions (flaws) visible in the stones are absolutely typical of natural ruby/sapphire gems.

-Important jewelry designers and fashion houses showed a renewed interest in naturalism starting in the late 1940s.  This was notable because naturalism had long been neglected in the jewelry world up until that point – more or less since the abandonment of the Art Nouveau and Edwardian styles around 1910.

-These Retro cufflinks display extremely fine workmanship, an attribute that is harder to find in fine jewelry than you might suspect.  In addition, they are also quite heavy, indicating that the jeweler who created them did not skimp on the gold.

-Natural, untreated rubies and sapphires are extremely rare today.  Most of these gems are heat-treated, flux-filled, beryllium diffused, dyed or otherwise modified to improve their appearance.  It is estimated that less than 1% of gem quality ruby production remains completely untreated before being set in jewelry!

-This pair of retro cufflinks exhibit classic 1950s design.  They combine naturalistic flower motifs and matte-finish yellow gold with eye-catching colored gemstones to form an aesthetically cohesive whole.

-I estimate the weight of the rubies and sapphires set in the front of these Retro cufflinks at 0.20 carats each and the rubies set in the back at 0.13 carats each.  As a result, the total estimated carat weight of gems contained in the piece is a substantial 1.06 carats.

-I believe the intrinsic value of these cufflinks is around $291 for the gold (with gold trading at $1,300 an ounce) and $106 for the gems (at about $100 per carat, conservatively).  This gives a total scrap value of roughly $400, which means that the seller’s asking price of $685 is less than double the intrinsic value – quite a bargain in my opinion.

-These solid 18 karat gold Retro cufflinks would make a great addition to any gentleman’s formal wardrobe, while simultaneously being a great tangible investment.

Cons:

-These cufflinks are not hallmarked.  Instead, the metal fineness has been verified by the seller via an acid test.  However, there is nothing in the photos that would lead me to believe that this jewelry is anything other than solid 18 karat gold.  They really are incredibly well-made.

-The natural rubies and sapphires set in these Retro cufflinks are of good, but not the very highest, quality.  You can tell by the numerous flaws which are readily apparent in the stones.  However, these rubies and sapphires are still valuable because they are completely untreated – a rarity in today’s gem market.

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Photo Credit: Jewelry Treasures New and Old

Ben Dyer Designer Brooch in 18K Gold

Buy It Now Price: $1,500 (price as of 2018; item no longer available)

Pros:

-This 18 karat gold designer brooch by the celebrated North Carolina jeweler Ben Dyer is set with an opal cabochon, a trillion-cut aquamarine and a small accent diamond.

-This Ben Dyer masterpiece measures 2 inches (5.1 cm) long by 0.5 inches (1.3 cm) wide.  It weighs 7.2 grams (0.2315 troy ounces) – a substantial amount for such a delicate design.

-This contemporary 18 karat gold brooch, with its wild combination of textures, colors and forms, is an excellent example of Modernist jewelry.

-Ben Dyer is an accomplished goldsmith based in Hillsborough, North Carolina.  He is tremendously experienced in his craft, having first started making jewelry in 1975.  His work is characterized by flowing lines and elongated forms, combined with contrasting textures and gemstone accents.

-I estimate the weight of the aquamarine in this brooch at around 0.60 carats, the opal at about 2.5 to 3.0 carats and the diamond at 0.05 carats.  Altogether, the intrinsic value of the gemstones set in this brooch is probably around $300 (assuming $200 per carat for the aquamarine, $50 per carat for the opal and $800 per carat for the diamond).

-The gold melt value of this Ben Dyer original is about $188 (at a $1,200 gold spot price).  When combined with the value of its gems, the piece has a total intrinsic value of $488, give or take.  However, I have been fairly conservative with these estimates; it is entirely possible that the components of this fine brooch are worth more than my assumptions.

-The materials and build quality of this designer brooch are beyond reproach.  In my estimation, less than 1 in 1,000 pieces of estate jewelry stand at the same level as this marvelous specimen.  It is simply a superb piece of jewelry.

-High quality estate jewelry is growing ever more expensive as time passes.  It used to be possible to buy high end pieces like this for $1,000 or less a decade ago.  But since then, we have reached what I believe to be the permanent end of inexpensive fine vintage jewelry.

-The asking price of $1,500 for this Ben Dyer tour de force is probably less than half what it would cost you if you were to commission it directly from the artist.  This is the primary reason that buying fine designer or vintage jewelry in the secondary market is a necessity for anyone interested in jewelry as an investment.

-I believe this is a compelling piece of investment-grade jewelry at a very reasonable price.  But if you balk at the $1,500 price tag, you can always make the seller a lower offer.

Cons:

-At $1,500, this superlative piece of designer jewelry is not cheap.  And I fully appreciate that many people cannot afford to drop this sum of money on a piece of jewelry.  But in the world of investment-grade antiques, the best of the best rarely comes cheap.  And if you want an heirloom-quality piece of jewelry that you can pass onto your children or grandchildren, this is definitely it!

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