Estate Jewelry

Photo Credit: Luvmydiamond

Antique 14 Karat Gold Art Nouveau Diamond Cufflinks

Buy It Now Price: $1,799 (price as of 2016; item no longer available)

Pros:

-This is an elegant pair of solid 14 karat yellow gold Art Nouveau diamond cufflinks, circa 1900.  They sport a lovely grape cluster motif that reflects the pinnacle of the naturalistic, fin de siècle style.

-These Art Nouveau diamond cufflinks measure 19 mm (0.75 inches) long by 13.7 mm (0.54 inches) wide and weigh a substantial 16.2 grams (0.5208 troy ounces).  This is very heavy for a pair of solid gold cufflinks, which is a sign of high quality construction.

-They are set with four old European cut diamonds that weigh 6 points each for a total carat weight of 0.24 carats.  The seller claims the diamonds have VS-2 clarity and H color.  Although this cannot be verified with the resolution of photos provided, the diamonds appear to be of good quality.  There is no reason to doubt the seller’s assessment of diamond quality.

-The quality of the goldwork on these Art Nouveau diamond cufflinks is truly outstanding.  The delicate rendering of the plump grapes and sinuous vines combines with the frosted texturing of the gold to extraordinary effect.  It is immediately obvious, even to a casual observer, that a master jeweler made these cufflinks.

-With the sheer volume of gold jewelry available in the world, you might think that good gold work is common.  You would be wrong.  Very fine, superlative gold jewelry is incredibly rare.  But these cufflinks are among the best of the best, helping to justify the premium price of $1,799.

Cons:

-These Art Nouveau diamond cufflinks are very expensive relative to their intrinsic value.  The diamonds are worth at most $72 at $300 per carat while the gold melt value is about $344 at the current spot price of $1,132 per troy ounce.  This means the cufflink’s asking price is over four times their total intrinsic value of $416.  This jewelry is definitely selling based on its value as a work of art and not on its intrinsic value.

-The intrinsic value of the piece and, by extension, its desirability would be higher if the diamonds were even modestly larger, say 8 to 10 points each.  Any larger than this and the diamonds would begin to overwhelm the design, however.

Photo Credit: Olde-Towne-Jewelers

Retro 14 Karat Yellow Gold and Grape Cluster Akoya Pearl Brooch from Italy

Buy It Now Price: $1,450 (price as of 2016; item no longer available)

Pros:

-This is a magnificent retro, 14 karat yellow gold and grape cluster Akoya pearl brooch.  It was made in Italy in the mid 20th century, probably in the 1950s, but possibly in the 1960s.

-This sizable pearl cluster brooch measures 1.81 inches (46mm) long by 1.38 inches (35mm) wide by 0.63 inches (16mm) deep.  It weighs 24.6 grams (0.79 troy ounces).

-Weight is often a good indicator of jewelry quality, with heavy pieces generally being higher quality than lighter pieces of the same size.  This Akoya pearl brooch’s significant heft suggests that it is a very high quality piece of jewelry indeed.

-This grape cluster brooch contains several dozen, 5mm (0.2 inch) diameter, creamy white pearls of excellent luster and roundness.  They are almost certainly Japanese Akoya pearls, a mainstay of fine jewelry manufactured during the mid 20th century.

-Japanese Akoya pearls are a variety of cultured, saltwater pearl that was first developed in the early 20th century by Kokichi Mikimoto, the founder of the modern cultured pearl industry.  Akoya pearls are valued by jewelry makers for their neutral colors, uniform shape and fine luster.

-Fine pearl jewelry was a necessity for any fashionable woman’s wardrobe during the 1950s and this fabulously retro, Akoya pearl brooch does not disappoint.  The goldwork and overall design of the brooch is very well executed, features typical of high quality, mid-century Italian jewelry.

-Although the $1,450 asking price of this Akoya pearl brooch is not low, you would have great difficulty finding a similar quality piece of retro pearl jewelry for less.

Cons:

-Akoya pearls are not as valuable as either South Sea or Tahitian cultured pearls.  And they are far less valuable than comparable natural pearls.  However, Akoya pearls are worth substantially more than freshwater pearls and are still quite desirable.

-The pearl industry has been going through a period of upheaval over the last 20 years, primarily due to the introduction of large quantities of good quality, low priced, freshwater pearls from China.  Given that pearl oysters are extremely sensitive to water pollution, it is an open question whether the Chinese pearl industry will continue to be able to maintain its enormous production rate over the long term.

-All pearls, including Akoya pearls, require special care to prevent damage.  Any chemicals, such as those found in hair spray, perfume or even human sweat, can dull pearls and lead to damage over time.  It is also recommended that pearls be stored in a place without major swings in relative humidity or temperature.  In addition, pearls are softer than other gemstones, and should not be stored loose with other jewelry to avoid scratches.

Photo Credit: gemcitygems

Modernist 18 Karat Rose Gold and Mandarin Orange Garnet Ring by Peter Barr

Buy It Now Price: $1,700 (price as of 2016; item no longer available)

Pros:

-This is a breathtaking modernist 18 karat rose gold ring set with a vivid 1.65 carat Mandarin orange garnet of excellent quality.

-The ring was designed by Peter Barr, an award winning jeweler who currently operates out of his gallery in Corpus Christi, Texas.  He only produces custom designs, so you will never find an identical ring by his hand.

-The ring is hallmarked with “18K” gold and Peter Barr’s maker’s mark.

-This modernist orange garnet ring weighs in at a substantial 11.3 grams.  Jewelry that is very heavy for its size often indicates high quality construction.  That is certainly the case in this instance.

-With gold currently trading at $1,319.40 per troy ounce, the melt value of the ring is about $360.  The Mandarin garnet mounted in the ring is worth anywhere from $150 to $250 per carat, or $247 to $412 for the gem.  I estimate the total intrinsic value of the ring between $607 and $772.

-This ring is really a masterpiece of modernist design.  Its use of textured rose gold as a subtle contrast to the fine Mandarin orange garnet centerpiece is a stroke of artistic genius.  Based on its superlative attributes, this piece of jewelry is almost certain to experience strong price appreciation in the future.

Cons:

-The ring’s $1,700 cost might seem high given that the intrinsic value of the piece is only $772 at most.  That means the ring’s intrinsic value constitutes a maximum of 45% of its asking price.  But this ring is so well designed and executed that it is worth significantly more than the sum of its parts.

-This ring is relatively recent, having been created no earlier than the 1990s.  In fact, it is probably from the early 2000s.  That means it will be many decades before this vintage ring completely seasons into a full-fledged antique.

-The creator of this modernist ring is still making jewelry today.  It may be possible to buy a similar, although not identical, piece directly from him for less money.  I must admit that I find this prospect extremely remote, however.  His work will not come cheaply.

Photo Credit: Brilliance-Jewels

Marraccini Designer Contemporary Stackable Rings with Diamonds and Precious Gems

Buy It Now Price: $2,500 (price as of 2016; item no longer available)

Pros:

-This is an amazing set of 14 karat yellow gold and gemstone contemporary stackable rings.  They are set with amethyst, pink tourmaline, diamonds and an unidentified opaque white stone that may be jade or milky quartz.

-Although the photo shows the rings as a single unit, they are actually four separate rings meant to be stacked on top of each other in varying configurations.

-Each ring is hallmarked “14K” and individually signed “Marraccini ©”.  Marraccini Designs is a jewelry studio located in Charlottesville, Virginia run by Lee Angelo Marraccini.

-Mr. Marraccini began designing and selling jewelry in 1974.  In fact, he still offers similar stackable rings although the rings featured here are definitely vintage designs with a distinctly more cubist feel.

-These contemporary stackable rings were obviously designed and crafted with great care.  The gems are also of good quality and were carefully chosen for maximum aesthetic effect.  These are absolutely top quality pieces of contemporary jewelry.

-These rings share a highly linear design language coupled with boldly colored accent stones.  This makes them prime examples of contemporary “neo-cubist” style – otherwise known as 1980s style.

Cons:

-The stones mounted in the rings are not expensive and are probably worth no more than $100 altogether.  Likewise, I would be surprised if the total weight of the rings exceeds 16 grams (0.51 troy ounces), giving a maximum gold value of about $403 with gold spot prices hovering around $1,339 a troy ounce.  This results in a total possible intrinsic value for the rings of about $500, well below the $2,500 asking price.

-At $2,500, this set of contemporary stackable rings is definitely a little pricey.  But exceptional designer jewelry is always expensive and these rings are among the best.  Another way to think of it is that each individual ring is only $625 – still not cheap, but definitely more palatable.