Estate Jewelry

Photo Credit: Oakgem

1970s 18k Gold Diamond Cufflinks

Buy It Now Price: $750 (price as of 2016; item no longer available)

Pros:

-This is a pair of solid 18 karat white gold and diamond vintage cufflinks from the 1970s.  They exhibit a classic modernist look, with textured gold enhancing the small, brilliant cut diamonds in a deceptively simple, yet timeless design.

-The rectangular cufflink faces measure 17 mm (0.67 inches) long by 9 mm (0.35 inches) wide and have beveled edges.  These pieces are fairly heavy for cufflinks, weighing in at a substantial 10.9 grams (0.35 troy ounces).

-The goldwork on these cufflinks is good, clean work.  There are no metal burrs or pitting indicating subpar quality.  This is most evident when examining the reverse of the cufflinks.

-The cufflinks are set with 6 brilliant cut, white diamonds of equal size.  Although the measurements of the diamonds are not disclosed by the seller, we can infer the weight of the stones using the overall measurements of the cufflinks.  Using this method the diamonds conservatively weigh an estimated 5 points each or 0.30 carats total weight.

-At the current gold spot price of $1,260 per troy ounce, these vintage cufflinks contain about $330 in gold.  Diamond melee (small diamonds) are much harder to price, but a low-ball figure would be $250 per carat, assuming they are at least medium quality stones.  This gives a total diamond value of very, very roughly $75 (0.30 carats x $250 per carat).  Adding both gold and diamonds together, the intrinsic value of the cufflinks is probably $400 or slightly higher.

-An intrinsic value of $400 gives a solid floor under the value of the cufflinks, representing 53.3% of the selling price.  In my opinion, the cufflink’s high intrinsic value relative to the selling price, coupled with their unmistakably high quality construction, makes the $750 asking price fair.

Cons:

-The seller has provided no close up photos of the cufflink’s hallmarks.  This makes it impossible to verify that the pieces are marked as 18 karat gold.  Of course, there is no particular reason to disbelieve the seller’s assertion either.

-The seller gives no measurements or weight estimates of the diamonds contained in the piece.  There aren’t any close up photos of the diamonds either, so the quality of the stones is very difficult to judge as well.  However, it would be very unusual for vintage cufflinks of this quality to be set with poor quality diamonds.

Photo Credit: DiamondTen

Antique GIA Cert .63ct Diamond & Sapphire 18K White Gold Deco Engagement Ring

Buy It Now Price: $1,185 (price as of 2016; item no longer available)

Pros:

-This is a 1.6 gram, 18 karat white gold ring set with a 0.57 carat diamond and two small flanking accent sapphires.  The diamond is an old European cut stone which is the correct cut for a ring of this era.

-This 1920s antique ring displays phenomenal art deco style – sleek angularity abounds. The beautifully engraved fluting on the shoulders may reflect a very slight Egyptian revival influence.  The Egyptian revival style came into vogue after the discovery of Pharaoh Tutankhamun’s tomb in Egypt’s Valley of the Kings in 1922.

-The central stone is a stunning, investment-grade specimen of an old European cut diamond, with good color and few inclusions.  The charming, slightly warm, rock crystal-like appearance of this stone is typically of old cut diamonds.  However, old mine and old European cut diamonds are often visibly yellow or brown to the naked eye.  They are also commonly more heavily flawed than modern cut stones.  This stone suffers from none of those flaws, making it a superior example of an antique cut diamond.

-The central diamond has J color (nearly colorless) and SI1 clarity (eye-clean) according to the accompanying GIA diamond certification.  The GIA (Gemological Institute of America) is a well known and respected diamond grading company.  The GIA certification for this diamond increases the desirability of the ring.

-The white gold mount is in good condition, with only modest wear on the ring’s filigree shoulders and the base of the shank.  This is somewhat unusual; rings of this age often have heavy wear, sometimes to the point where decorative elements are nearly obliterated or the bottom of the shank is nearly worn through.

-The vast majority of the intrinsic value of this piece is concentrated in the central diamond.  This is both normal and desirable for a piece of high quality, investment-grade jewelry.  In fact, I would guess that the central diamond is conservatively worth $1,000, meaning you aren’t paying much for the setting or its value as an antique.  $1,185 is a very good price for this ring; it strictly limits your downside risk.

Cons:

-The seller claims that the small (0.03 carat each), triangle-cut sapphires on each side of the main stone are natural.  This cannot be independently verified, but would be unusual given the time period and cut.  Most calibre-cut, accent sapphires from this era are synthetic.  However, while unlikely it is not impossible for them to be natural either.  In any case, regardless of whether the sapphires are synthetic or natural, the value of the ring is not significantly impacted.

-This ring is not explicitly hallmarked as 18 karat gold.  Instead it has been tested by the seller as 18 karat gold.  We are taking the seller’s word that the ring is as described, although I should note that the large diamond and excellent workmanship are completely consistent with a high karat setting.

-The ring is size 5.5, which is only appropriate for slim fingers.  Of course, the ring could relatively easily be resized.  In fact, the seller offers resizing for an additional $75.

Photo Credit: tparker1069

Designer Modernist 18K Yellow Gold Pink Tourmaline Pearl Dangle Earrings

Buy It Now Price: $995 (price as of 2016; item no longer available)

Pros:

-This pair of pearl dangle earrings is a very fine example of Modernist jewelry. They have a strong composition and interestingly textured gold.

-The earrings are heavy for their size, weighing 8.6 grams.

-The earrings use good quality materials: 18 karat gold, nice brilliant cut pink tourmalines and baroque pearls.

-The backs of the earrings are beautiful, showing that the jeweler took great care in casting them. This piece is probably one-of-a-kind.

-These earrings are hallmarked “18K” and signed by the designer. This is common on high quality Modernist jewelry.

Cons:

-The seller does not give measurements of the tourmalines or pearls. This makes it impossible to estimate their weights.

-These earrings are a bit on the pricey side at $995. The intrinsic value of the gold they contain is only around $225 (with gold trading at $1,100 an ounce). The intrinsic value for the tourmalines and pearls are difficult to calculate, but are probably rather low – I would guess no more than $50. I would be much more comfortable paying around $750 or maybe $800 for these exceptional earrings.