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1880s Illinois Pocket Watch with Dueber Gold Double Hunter Case

1880s Illinois Pocket Watch with Dueber Gold Double Hunter Case
Photo Credit: utamaro

1880s Illinois Pocket Watch with Dueber Gold Double Hunter Case

Asking Price: $1,000 (price as of 2018; item no longer available)

Pros:

-This magnificent antique Illinois pocket watch from the 1880s features a solid 14 karat gold double hunter case by Dueber.

-Although the seller does not give the dimensions of the watch, we know that size 8 pocket watch movements measure 1.43 inches (36.4 mm) in diameter.  Inclusive of both the movement and case, the watch weighs 76.1 grams.

-The Illinois Watch Company was founded in 1867 in its eponymous state.  Like many watch companies, it branched out into wristwatch production in the 1910s.  In 1927, the firm was purchased by a competitor, the Hamilton Watch Company.  The Great Depression soon prompted Hamilton to close the Illinois factory.  As a result, the last “true” Illinois watch was released in 1938.

-This 1880s Illinois pocket watch is housed in a gloriously period-correct, solid 14 karat gold Dueber watch case.  Dueber (also known as Dueber-Hampden) was known for making watch cases of widely varying materials, including base metal, coin silver, sterling silver, gold filled, 10 karat gold, 14 karat gold and 18 karat gold.

-This antique Illinois pocket watch has a 7-jewel, size 8, grade 151 movement, with an estimated manufacturing date of 1881.

-A double hunter pocket watch case is hinged on both sides to accommodate two protective metal covers: one for the front “dial side” of the watch and the other for the back “movement side”.  These exterior metal covers were often beautifully engraved or otherwise decorated.  Double hunter watch cases were invariably more expensive than open face or full hunter watches because they used more metal and required more work to decorate.

-An old $150 promissory note dated 1895 accompanies the watch, which was most likely collateral for the note.  $150 was a massive sum of money in 1895, and would have been equal to seven and a half U.S. double eagle gold coins, each one containing nearly a full troy ounce of pure gold.  This would roughly be the equivalent of taking a $15,000 loan against your prized solid-gold Rolex today.

-This Illinois pocket watch is superbly engraved on both sides of its 14 karat gold Dueber case with a fanciful scene of flowers, sea monsters and fountains.  Seriously, this is some of the finest engraving work I’ve seen on a Victorian era watch (or anything else for that matter).  In addition, the case is not monogrammed, which is a real bonus for some antique collectors.

-Although it is difficult to estimate with any degree of precision, it is almost a certainty that this Illinois pocket watch contains several hundred dollars worth of gold.  This reduces the investment risk associated with buying the watch, although it would be a pity to scrap such an impressive piece.

-Given this watch’s wonderful engraving, solid gold case and good condition, I believe that the $1,000 ($1,165 with servicing) asking price is easily justified.

 

Other Antique Watches For Sale by Utamaro On Etsy

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Cons:

-Although the seller claims the case for this Illinois pocket watch is solid 14 karat gold, there is the possibility that it is only 10 karat gold.  According to an 1888 advertisement in this forum post, the specific trademark used on this watch refers to solid 10 karat gold cases.  While I don’t normally recommend investing in antiques made from anything less than 14 karat gold, I do make exceptions for extraordinary pieces or unusual situations.  This is one of those exceptional times.  In addition, 19th century technical references are notoriously inaccurate.  So I believe that the exact gold content of the case is still an open question.

-The seller is offering to fully service this Illinois pocket watch for an extra $165, which is a very reasonable price.  However, I am uncomfortable with the idea that the seller would consider shipping the watch to a customer without servicing it first, leaving it in potentially non-working condition.  I would prefer that the seller simply service the watch and then adjust the asking price upwards to compensate.

 

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Edwardian Platinum Pendant with Chalcedony, Pearls and Diamonds

Edwardian Platinum Pendant with Chalcedony, Pearls and Diamonds
Photo Credit: mycollectioninc

Edwardian Platinum Pendant with Chalcedony, Pearls and Diamonds

Buy It Now Price: $1,948.21 (price as of 2018; item no longer available)

Pros:

-This Edwardian platinum pendant from the era of the Titanic is set with a mesmerizing, lavender-colored chalcedony gemstone that is surrounded by natural pearls and old European cut diamonds.

-Platinum is an incredibly rare precious metal.  It is mined at a rate that is only 1/15th that of gold and 1/130th that of silver.  Platinum is so uncommon that many people have never had the opportunity to handle, much less own, a piece of platinum jewelry.

-Pure platinum is alloyed with iridium, ruthenium or cobalt in order to harden and toughen it for use in jewelry.

-A large, 25 carat lavender chalcedony cabochon sits enthroned in the center of this elegant Edwardian platinum pendant.  Chalcedony is a translucent, microcrystalline variety of quartz that has been treasured since antiquity.  Chalcedony is not a very expensive gemstone, but it can be absolutely stunning when properly used in a piece of jewelry – as this example proves.

-Platinum is a very tough, strong and hard-wearing jewelry metal.  In fact, native platinum is as hard as pure iron.  This means that, all else being equal, platinum jewelry remains in good condition for far longer than softer gold or silver jewelry.  That is certainly the case with this Edwardian platinum pendant, which is over 100 years old, but still looks just as good as the day it was made.

-This Edwardian platinum pendant is almost certainly set with natural pearls!  Because they develop in oysters by pure chance, without the intervention of man, natural pearls have always been incredibly rare.  In fact, before the advent of commercially produced cultured pearls in the late 1910s, only the very wealthiest members of society could afford to indulge in pearl jewelry.  This pendant is one of those baubles of the Edwardian super rich.

-Platinum jewelry alloys are much higher purity than comparable karat gold alloys.  For example, 18 karat gold is only 75% pure while most platinum alloys are either 90% or 95% fine.

-This magnificent pendant contains an (estimated) grand total of 1 full carat of diamonds.  The majority of the weight, probably around 0.8 carats, is in the 8 old European cut diamonds that ring the lavender chalcedony.  These are actually quite sizable for Edwardian period accent diamonds, which is another indicator of the item’s incredibly high quality.

-Platinum is very undervalued at the moment, as evidenced by the platinum-gold ratio trading at substantially under 1.0.  This ratio has spent almost the entirety of the last 120 years well above 1.0, having only dropped decisively below that key threshold within the last few years.  If you have ever had an interest in vintage platinum jewelry, I urge you to take advantage of this unique investment opportunity while platinum prices are still low.

-The quality of this Edwardian platinum pendant is absolutely stellar.  I don’t often recommend jewelry this expensive, but this piece is a true work of art.  Even at a price of nearly $1,950, I think this pendant would make a great investment.

 

Cons:

-The pin on the back of this Edwardian platinum pendant/brooch has a slightly different color than the rest of the metal, indicating that it might have been replaced at some point in the past.  I consider this a fairly minor demerit for a piece that is otherwise flawless.

-The buy-it-now price of $1,950 might be too much to swallow for some buyers, but vintage items this superb are never cheap.  And it is a near certainty that a piece of comparable antique platinum jewelry will cost you far, far more than just $2,000 in another 10 or 20 years.

 

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A Set of Mid-Century Modern Gilt Sterling Silver Danish Teaspoons

A Set of Mid-Century Modern Gilt Sterling Silver Danish Teaspoons

Photo Credit: serendipity1884

A Set of Mid-Century Modern Gilt Sterling Silver Danish Teaspoons

Asking Price: $157.04 (price as of 2018; item no longer available)

Pros:

-Mid-Century Modern is on full display with this luscious set of 6 gold-plated, sterling silver Danish teaspoons from the 1960s.

-These Mid-Century Danish demitasse spoons measure about 4.1 inches (10.5 cm) in length and weigh around 10 grams (0.3215 troy ounces) each.

-These sterling silver teaspoons are hallmarked “W&S. Sørensen”, which refers to the Danish silversmithing company Horsens Sølvvarefabrik.  This firm was founded in 1904 by the Sørensen brothers, Sofus and Winter.  While small at first, Horsens Sølvvarefabrik eventually became one of Denmark’s largest, most respected silversmiths.  The company is now part of the Scandinavian cutlery maker Gense.

-These lovely gilt sterling silver Danish teaspoons would be the perfect way to impress your friends at your next intimate gathering.  They would pair wonderfully with after-dinner coffee, tea or dessert.

-This particular Sørensen silverware pattern is known as “SOS12” and was produced in the 1950s and 1960s.  It is still possible to find silverware other than teaspoons in this pattern, so if you wanted to buy these wonderful teaspoons as a starter set and add to it later, you could.

-Scandinavia is renowned for its alluringly minimalist, streamlined design aesthetic.  And these gorgeous, Mid-Century Modern sterling silver Danish teaspoons certainly live up to that reputation.  I love the contrast of the smooth gilt bowls against the subtly geometric decoration on the handles.

-This set of W&S Sørensen demitasse spoons comes in its original box, which also appears to be in excellent condition.  This is no mean feat considering these sterling silver Danish teaspoons are now at least 50 years old.

-These scrumptious Mid-Century Modern sterling silver Danish teaspoons are the kind of antique you buy as a family heirloom.  Continental European silver is a solid long-term investment, and with an asking price of only $157, this set is no exception.

 

Cons:

-These Danish silver teaspoons are fairly small and, consequently, don’t weigh very much.  With the spot price of silver at $15.50 per ounce, this set only contains about $28 in bullion value.  You are definitely not buying this set for its silver melt value.

-These Mid-Century marvels originate from France, so the shipping costs might be unpleasantly high if you live in the United States.  Etsy quoted me a charge of $29 to abduct these Danish treasures from the heart of Europe.

 

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Artisan Hand-Crafted Sterling Silver Earrings

Artisan Hand-Crafted Sterling Silver Earrings
Photo Credit: cutterstone

Artisan Hand-Crafted Sterling Silver Earrings

Asking Price: $176 (price as of 2018; item no longer available)

Pros:

-Artisan hand-crafted sterling silver earrings have never looked so good!  This gorgeous pair is complemented by faceted blue zircons and purple freshwater cultured pearls.

-These hand-crafted sterling silver earrings measure 1.875 inches (48 mm) long by 0.625 inches (16 mm) wide.

-Cutterstone jewelers is a husband and wife team based in Calimesa, in Southern California.  Cutterstone has been selling on the Etsy platform since 2010.  The husband, John, has been cutting gems since 1975 and repairing/crafting jewelry since about 1990.  This considerable experience is evident in the outstanding quality of every piece of Cutterstone jewelry.

-These hand-crafted sterling silver earrings have had been cast in a carved cuttlebone mold, giving them a uniquely organic, wave-patterned surface.  Cuttlebone casting is an ancient jewelry making technique that uses the bone-like internal structure of cuttlefish – a cephalopod that is closely related to squids.

-The purple pearls set in these earrings are almost certainly Chinese freshwater cultured pearls.  Chinese freshwater pearls, while undeniably beautiful, have been mass-produced in recent decades.  Although relatively common today, China’s ongoing struggle with water pollution makes it an open question whether their rivers will be able to sustainably support a commercial pearl industry in the future.

-A cuttlebone mold is always destroyed in the jewelry making process, ensuring that only a single example of any particular cuttlebone-cast jewelry can ever be made.  These artisan hand-crafted sterling silver earrings are absolutely unique, which makes them very desirable.

-I have had my eye on these earrings for a couple years now.  They are so compellingly beautiful and modestly priced that I simply cannot believe that someone hasn’t come along and snapped them up already!

-Zircon (ZrSiO4) is a highly under-rated, natural gemstone that comes in a dazzling rainbow of colors; reds, yellows, browns, greens and blues (usually heat-treated) are all possible.  Zircon is not only a relatively hard gem (Moh’s hardness of 6 to 7.5 versus 7 for quartz), but also sports an exceptionally high refractive index (about 1.9 to 2.0 versus 2.42 for diamond), which grants it tremendous sparkle and eye appeal.

-Rather than spending $50 to $100 on a pair of generic costume jewelry earrings, it makes a lot of sense to splurge on these one-of-a-kind, hand-crafted sterling silver earrings instead.  At $176, they are hardly more expensive than most costume jewelry, but have the potential to appreciate in value over time.  And you’ll look fabulous wearing them in the meantime!

 

Cutterstone Hand-Crafted Jewelry for Sale on Etsy

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Cons:

-The intrinsic value of these hand-crafted sterling silver earrings is relatively low.  I estimate that the zircons are worth about $20, the silver around $10 and the freshwater pearls $5 or less.  Even using optimistic assumptions, these earrings have a total intrinsic value of no more than $35 or $40.

-Purchasing contemporary jewelry as an investment is always fraught with risk.  While antique or vintage jewelry is generally safer from an investment standpoint, I believe that carefully chosen, artisan-made new jewelry can be a stealth investment.  In fact, I wrote an article on this very topic, focusing on a marvelous, hand-made Cutterstone pendant that I purchased a few years ago.

 

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