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Vintage Watches

1969 Bulova Snorkel Diver Stainless Steel Wristwatch

1969 Bulova Snorkel Diver Stainless Steel Wristwatch
Photo Credit: savethetreestoday

1969 Bulova Snorkel Diver Stainless Steel Wristwatch

Buy It Now Price: $595 (price as of 2019; item no longer available)

Pros:

-This vintage Bulova Snorkel diver wristwatch sports a champagne enamel dial, stainless steel case, tritium lume and a timeless stylistic sensibility.

-This 1960s dive watch measures 35 mm (1.38 inches) wide when excluding the crown, and a chunky 11 mm (0.43 inches) in thickness.

-Bulova was originally a New York City jewelry store that began selling table clocks and pocket watches in 1911.  After strong sales, the firm very quickly branched into watch manufacturing.  Unlike other large American watchmakers of the 20th century, many of Bulova’s movements (like the 11BLACD found in this Bulova Snorkel Diver) were imported from Switzerland instead of being domestically produced.

-Both the case and movement of this vintage Bulova watch can be definitively dated to 1969.  This is because Bulova used an alpha-numeric date code system during this time.  In this instance, “M9” was separately stamped on the case and movement, indicating the year 1969.

-Bulova fist introduced its Snorkel diver in 1961.  After being redesigned in the late 1960s to withstand pressure to a depth of 666 feet (203 meters), it was rebranded as the Oceanographer Snorkel.  Because of the Biblical connotations of its 666 foot depth rating, the Bulova Snorkel is sometimes referred to as the “Devil Diver”.

-This vintage dive watch features a 17-jewel, Bulova 11BLACD automatic movement.  This Swiss-made workhorse caliber had a date function and was produced from 1968 to 1970.  The 11BLACD was not a particularly high-end movement, but nonetheless had a good reputation for robustness and longevity.

-This Bulova Snorkel diver is quadruple signed, which is a good indicator of originality.  Quadruple signed means the watch has the Bulova name emblazoned on the dial, crown, case and movement.

-In the late 1960s and early 1970s, Bulova Oceanographer/Snorkel wristwatches typically retailed for between $60 and $100.  After adjusting for inflation, this would be the equivalent of $423 to $706 in 2019 dollars.

-Given the dramatic price increases that vintage chronograph wristwatches have experienced over the past several years, vintage diver watches are relative bargains.

-I love the classic design language of this Bulova Snorkel diver.  Because they are simultaneously sporty and masculine, dive watches are the natural fashion choice for many men.  And this Bulova does it better than most, making it a great addition to your watch collection at only $595.

 

Cons:

-This Bulova Snorkel diver is not in pristine condition, which lowers its desirability somewhat.  However, it has what I consider to be good, honest wear coupled with a nice patina.  This is an excellent sign that the watch is completely original – a tremendous benefit when Frankenwatches abound.

-Curiously, this Bulova Snorkel diver is not labeled on the case or dial as being waterproof.  This is a bit unusual, as diving was the raison d’être of Snorkel watches.  But Bulova made a tremendous number of Snorkel variations throughout the 1960s and 1970s.  In addition, all of its parts – from the dial to the case to the movement – are period correct as far as I can tell.  I suspect that this vintage Bulova is just an obscure, limited production Snorkel model.

-The seller has explicitly stated that he has not serviced this watch.  Expect to pay $100 to $300 for a professional servicing after you buy it.

 

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1940 Gruen Veri-Thin 14K Rose Gold Watch

1940 Gruen Veri-Thin 14K Rose Gold Watch
Photo Credit: Strickland Vintage Watches

1940 Gruen Veri-Thin 14K Rose Gold Watch

Buy It Now Price: $795 (price as of 2018; item no longer available)

Pros:

-This vintage men’s Gruen Veri-Thin wristwatch has a solid 14 karat rose gold case and a 17-jewel, Swiss caliber 530 movement from the year 1940.

-It measures 38 mm (1.50 inches) long (including the lugs) by 25 mm (0.98 inches) wide (including the crown).  Although considered a bit small by today’s standards, this Gruen Veri-Thin watch was actually fairly large for a man’s watches in the 1940s.

-Gruen was a Cincinnati, Ohio-based watch manufacturer founded in 1894.  Unlike many domestic watchmakers during that period – like Hamilton and Lord Elgin – most Gruen watches were cased and timed in the U.S. using Swiss movements.

-The Gruen Veri-Thin movement had originally been launched in 1903 for pocket watches, but was later adapted to wristwatches in 1938 with considerable fanfare.  Veri-Thin wristwatch calibers were engineered to be thin on the edges with a slight bulge in the middle.  This made for a more robust movement with the illusion of overall thinness.

-The Gruen Watch Company suffered a serious of disastrous management decisions in the 1950s.  The worst of these strategic moves was the sale of its Canadian watch distribution network to finance the ill-advised purchase of the Waterman Pen Company (Canada).  The fountain pen unit was then sold a mere six months later at a substantial loss.  The struggling Gruen Watch Company was finally broken up in 1958, although watches were still produced under the Gruen nameplate until 1976.

-The case of this 1940s Gruen Veri-Thin wristwatch is made from solid 14 karat rose gold.  Vintage rose gold watches are extremely sought after in the watch collecting community and often command a premium over similar yellow-gold watches.

Vintage Gruen wristwatches can be dated through their “style number” – a manufacturer’s code located on the inside of the case.  These typically occur as a six-digit number with the first three numbers representing the watch’s caliber and the final three the style number.  The code for this Gruen Veri-Thin is 530-430, which indicates a Swiss-made caliber 530 movement from the year 1940.

-As an added bonus, this Gruen Veri-Thin watch comes in a period-correct, burgundy and ivory-colored Bakelite case, which is collectible in its own right.  Please note that although the case is Gruen-branded, it may or may not be original to the watch.

-This beautiful vintage watch has already been serviced, a real plus considering that servicing costs can easily run from $100 to $300.  It is ready to wear to your next big event; you simply have to slip it on your wrist and go.

-Given the fact that this vintage Gruen Veri-Thin wristwatch has a solid 14 karat gold case and has already been serviced, I find the Buy-It-Now price of $795 to be quite reasonable.  Vintage American wristwatches are substantially undervalued in today’s market and this specimen epitomizes the tremendous deals that shrewd antique investors can find.

 

Cons:

-It is possible to find vintage solid karat gold wristwatches from American manufacturers for $500, or even a bit less.  But these less expensive watches almost always have drawbacks.  For example, they often require extensive servicing due to neglect, something that can drive the final price tag upwards by several hundred dollars.

 

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Vintage Grand Seiko Hi Beat 6145 8000 with 61GS Movement

Vintage Grand Seiko Hi Beat 6145 8000 with 61GS Movement
Photo Credit: Threeming-JAPAN

Vintage Grand Seiko Hi Beat 6145 8000 with 61GS Movement

Buy It Now Price: $1,200 (price as of 2018; item no longer available)

Pros:

-Here is a vintage Grand Seiko Hi Beat 6145 8000 men’s stainless steel wristwatch from 1969 with a 25-jewel, 61GS automatic movement.

-This vintage Grand Seiko Hi Beat watch measures 37 mm (1.45 inches) wide (excluding the crown) by 42 mm (1.65 inches) long (including the lugs).

Grand Seiko is the luxury marquee of Japanese watchmaker Seiko.  First established in 1960, Grand Seiko sought to compete with the legendary Swiss watch manufacturers on their own turf.  The company obsessively pursued quality, resulting in some truly spectacular vintage Japanese timepieces.

-Grand Seiko produced its iconic 61GS Hi Beat automatic movement from 1968 until 1975.  The “Hi Beat” moniker refers to the fact that the movement functions at 36,000 BPH (beats per hour) versus less than 20,000 PBH for most 1960s era Swiss watches.

-Grand Seiko watches are superbly crafted and deserve to be considered the equal of storied Swiss luxury watch brands such as Rolex, Omega and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

-A high-beat (or Hi Beat – a Seiko specific marketing term) watch movement is desirable because it is slightly more accurate than lower PBH movements and provides for an intoxicatingly smooth sweep seconds hand.

-Prices for older Grand Seiko watches have increased dramatically over the past 10 to 15 years as the horological community has gradually discovered them.  It used to be possible to pick up a vintage Grand Seiko Hi Beat watch for just a few hundred dollars back in the mid 2000s.  Now, you’re realistically looking at $1,000 or higher for a 61GS example in good condition.  But the quality is so outstanding that they are worth every penny of their new, higher price.

-It is common for the finely brushed case finish on these older Grand Seiko watches to be destroyed by even light polishing.  Luckily, although it shows a bit of wear, this vintage Grand Seiko Hi Beat looks to be mostly intact.

-The Grand Seiko 6145 8000 in stainless steel had an original retail price of ¥37,000 in 1969, which was the princely sum of $103 at the then prevailing yen-dollar exchange rate of ¥358 per dollar.  This would be the equivalent of over $700 in inflation-adjusted, 2018 dollars.

-I love the visually striking white on white look of this vintage Grand Seiko Hi Beat watch.  The dazzling white dial and leather strap are perfectly offset by the subtle metallic sheen of the stainless steel case.

-Given this vintage Grand Seiko Hi Beat 6145 8000’s good condition and iconic status, I believe the $1,200 buy-it-now price is fair.  However, if this is too rich for your wallet, you can always make the seller a lower offer.

 

Cons:

-The seller doesn’t mention the last time this 1969 Grand Seiko Hi Beat was serviced.  Therefore, it should probably be serviced immediately.  This would bump up the total price tag by a few hundred dollars (vintage Grand Seikos often have relatively high servicing costs because they are usually shipped back to Japan for the work).

-The watch’s condition is not perfect, with a touch of corrosion underneath the rim of the case-back.  In addition, the white leather strap looks a bit worn and will probably need to be replaced soon.  However, this is to be expected in a well-loved vintage watch that is nearly 50 years old.

 

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1880s Illinois Pocket Watch with Dueber Gold Double Hunter Case

1880s Illinois Pocket Watch with Dueber Gold Double Hunter Case
Photo Credit: utamaro

1880s Illinois Pocket Watch with Dueber Gold Double Hunter Case

Asking Price: $1,000 (price as of 2018; item no longer available)

Pros:

-This magnificent antique Illinois pocket watch from the 1880s features a solid 14 karat gold double hunter case by Dueber.

-Although the seller does not give the dimensions of the watch, we know that size 8 pocket watch movements measure 1.43 inches (36.4 mm) in diameter.  Inclusive of both the movement and case, the watch weighs 76.1 grams.

-The Illinois Watch Company was founded in 1867 in its eponymous state.  Like many watch companies, it branched out into wristwatch production in the 1910s.  In 1927, the firm was purchased by a competitor, the Hamilton Watch Company.  The Great Depression soon prompted Hamilton to close the Illinois factory.  As a result, the last “true” Illinois watch was released in 1938.

-This 1880s Illinois pocket watch is housed in a gloriously period-correct, solid 14 karat gold Dueber watch case.  Dueber (also known as Dueber-Hampden) was known for making watch cases of widely varying materials, including base metal, coin silver, sterling silver, gold filled, 10 karat gold, 14 karat gold and 18 karat gold.

-This antique Illinois pocket watch has a 7-jewel, size 8, grade 151 movement, with an estimated manufacturing date of 1881.

-A double hunter pocket watch case is hinged on both sides to accommodate two protective metal covers: one for the front “dial side” of the watch and the other for the back “movement side”.  These exterior metal covers were often beautifully engraved or otherwise decorated.  Double hunter watch cases were invariably more expensive than open face or full hunter watches because they used more metal and required more work to decorate.

-An old $150 promissory note dated 1895 accompanies the watch, which was most likely collateral for the note.  $150 was a massive sum of money in 1895, and would have been equal to seven and a half U.S. double eagle gold coins, each one containing nearly a full troy ounce of pure gold.  This would roughly be the equivalent of taking a $15,000 loan against your prized solid-gold Rolex today.

-This Illinois pocket watch is superbly engraved on both sides of its 14 karat gold Dueber case with a fanciful scene of flowers, sea monsters and fountains.  Seriously, this is some of the finest engraving work I’ve seen on a Victorian era watch (or anything else for that matter).  In addition, the case is not monogrammed, which is a real bonus for some antique collectors.

-Although it is difficult to estimate with any degree of precision, it is almost a certainty that this Illinois pocket watch contains several hundred dollars worth of gold.  This reduces the investment risk associated with buying the watch, although it would be a pity to scrap such an impressive piece.

-Given this watch’s wonderful engraving, solid gold case and good condition, I believe that the $1,000 ($1,165 with servicing) asking price is easily justified.

 

Other Antique Watches For Sale by Utamaro On Etsy

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Cons:

-Although the seller claims the case for this Illinois pocket watch is solid 14 karat gold, there is the possibility that it is only 10 karat gold.  According to an 1888 advertisement in this forum post, the specific trademark used on this watch refers to solid 10 karat gold cases.  While I don’t normally recommend investing in antiques made from anything less than 14 karat gold, I do make exceptions for extraordinary pieces or unusual situations.  This is one of those exceptional times.  In addition, 19th century technical references are notoriously inaccurate.  So I believe that the exact gold content of the case is still an open question.

-The seller is offering to fully service this Illinois pocket watch for an extra $165, which is a very reasonable price.  However, I am uncomfortable with the idea that the seller would consider shipping the watch to a customer without servicing it first, leaving it in potentially non-working condition.  I would prefer that the seller simply service the watch and then adjust the asking price upwards to compensate.

 

Read more fascinating Antique Sage spotlight posts here.

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Read in-depth Antique Sage investment guides here.