Vintage Watches

Photo Credit: Central-Jersey-Estate-Liquidators

Men’s 14K Gold & Diamond Retro Longines Wristwatch

Buy It Now Price: $349.99 (price as of 2017; item no longer available)

Pros:

-Here is a very attractive men’s solid 14 karat gold & diamond retro Longines wristwatch from the World War II era, circa 1945.

-The case is made from solid 14 karat gold and the dial has diamond hour markers at the 12, 3 and 9 o’clock positions.

-The dial appears to be in superb condition and has not been refinished – a desirable attribute for European vintage wristwatches.

-This retro Longines wristwatch has a rectangular case that measures 21.4 mm (0.84 inches) wide by 21.4 mm (0.84 inches) long, excluding the lugs and crown.  This would be considered rather small by today’s standards, but was completely normal for men’s wristwatches in the 1940s.

-Longines wristwatches were one of the finest luxury watch brands of the early to mid 20th century, easily the equal of competitors Omega and Rolex.

-This retro Longines wristwatch sports a manual-wind, 17 jewel, 8LN movement which is completely consistent with a mid 1940s attribution.  In addition, the serial number on the movement, 7059639, pinpoints the year of manufacture in 1945.

-Although I can’t verify the exact model of this retro Longines wristwatch, I am certain it is from the 1940s.  It is almost identical, stylistically speaking, to the Longines “Coronation Strap” model which retailed for $125 in 1941.  Adjusted for inflation, that is the equivalent of $2,083 today!

-I love the sculpted, hidden lugs on this retro Longines wristwatch.  They really epitomize the stylistic zeitgeist of the 1940s era.

-Longines vintage wristwatches are similar to American vintage wristwatches in that they are largely overlooked in today’s marketplace.  How else do you explain the ridiculously low $350 buy-it-now price for this solid 14 karat gold and diamond example from the 1940s?  I believe that savvy connoisseurs should accumulate vintage Longines wristwatches now, while they are still underpriced.

Cons:

-The crown might be a replacement.  You could probably have an original crown swapped in for a modest fee when you have the watch serviced.

-The seller claims this retro Longines wristwatch is running, but doesn’t know its service record.  Therefore, he is selling it as-is.  If you were to purchase this watch, you would be wise to have it immediately serviced.  This would probably cost somewhere between $100 and $300, assuming no major issues are found.

-Some of the hour markers on the wristwatch are heavily tarnished.  This makes it appear far less attractive than it could be.  Luckily, I think a professional dial restorer could easily clean the hour markers for around $50 or even a bit less.  You could also have the rest of the dial restored at the same time, if you so desired, but this would drive up the price.  In addition, some vintage wristwatch collectors adamantly favor original dials, and this retro Longines wristwatch has a nice original dial (with the exception of the hour markers).

Photo Credit: kontiki6611

1970s Lanco Panda Chronograph Wristwatch

Buy It Now Price: $659 (price as of 2017; item no longer available)

Pros:

-This is an attractive vintage men’s Lanco panda chronograph two-register wristwatch from the 1970s.  This type of watch is called a “panda” because the small black registers juxtapositioned against the white dial of the watch face resemble the iconic animal.

-The beautifully chromed stainless steel case measures approximately 39.5 mm (1.56 inches) wide (excluding the crown) by 42 mm (1.65 inches) long.  This is very large for a vintage wristwatch, but fairly average in size when compared to modern watches.

-This Lanco chronograph wristwatch is in great condition, showing very little wear.  As an added bonus, the dial looks both pristine and original to me.

-A chronograph is any watch that possesses the capacity to be used as a stopwatch in addition to its normal timekeeping functions.  Vintage chronograph wristwatches are extremely desirable because of their aesthetic beauty and masterfully engineered mechanical movements.

-Our vintage Lanco panda chronograph has a small 60 second register at the 9:00 position and a matching 45 minute register at 3:00.

-This Lanco panda chronograph wristwatch uses a manual wind, 17 jewel, Valjoux calibre 7733 movement.  The affordable Valjoux 7733 family of movements (which included the 7733, 7734, 7736 and 7737) was produced from 1969 until 1978.  They were used in wristwatches from many different manufacturers, including Breitling, Heuer and Tudor.

-1970s mechanical wristwatches, and 1970s chronographs in particular, represent an exceptional opportunity in the tangible investment space.  These masterpieces of horological art are almost 50 years old now, and are just beginning to gain acceptance in the watch collecting community.  Prices have risen strongly over the past decade and will almost certainly continue to rise in the future.

-At an asking price of $659, I feel that this 1970s Lanco panda chronograph is a good buy.  It is only 1/4 to 1/2 the cost of a comparable chronograph wristwatch from a better-recognized manufacturer, but still has the iconic look, history and zeitgeist of its more expensive peers.

Cons:

-The Valjoux calibre 7733 was a mid-quality movement intended for use in price-conscious chronograph wristwatches.  The very best watch brands of the era – Rolex, Omega, Audemars Piguet and IWC, among others – generally used much more expensive, in-house movements.  These higher quality movements are far more desirable to experienced watch collectors.

-Although it was a well known and respected brand in its time, Lanco is generally considered a second-tier brand by today’s standards.  All else being equal, a panda chronograph wristwatch manufactured by Rolex, Heuer, Seiko or other better-known brands would be more desirable from an investment standpoint.

-Expect to pay $100 to $300 to have this Lanco mechanical wristwatch professionally serviced after you purchase it.  This boosts the total cost of the watch considerably.

Photo Credit: Alhambra-Coin-Center

Waltham 14 Karat Gold 1920s Pocket Watch

Buy It Now Price: $626.18 (price as of 2017; item no longer available)

Pros:

-This very attractive, open-face 1920s pocket watch was manufactured by the well regarded Waltham Watch Company, based in Waltham, Massachusetts.

-The triple-hinged, solid 14 karat yellow gold case of this 1920s pocket watch was made by the Keystone Watch Case Company.

-The movement is a 17 jewel, size 12, grade no. 225, which Waltham produced from 1903 through 1934.  This particular movement (serial number 24094400) was most likely manufactured in 1921.

-The completely original watch dial is accentuated by an intriguing bright-cut design in its center.  While original, unrefinished dials are very desirable on vintage European watches, they rarely have a positive impact on the value of vintage American watches.

-The reverse of this 1920s pocket watch features an engraved shield motif surrounded by elegant, engine-turned decoration.

-According to the seller, this Waltham pocket watch was recently serviced and is in good working order.  An examination of the movement shows that it is very clean, with hardly a trace of rust.  Rust is the enemy of antique watch movements and can render them nearly impossible to restore.

-During the 1920s both pocket watches and wristwatches were widely used.  By the 1930s, wristwatches had gained favor while pocket watches began to be viewed as old fashioned.

-This 1920s pocket watch absolutely exudes prohibition-era, flapper style.  The 1920s was a boom time in the U.S. and people didn’t hesitate to spend lavish sums of money on jewelry, furs, cars and other luxury goods.  This high quality pocket watch reflects that fact.

-Given its beauty, condition and the fact that it has already been serviced, I feel that the $626.18 asking price for this 1920s pocket watch is a bargain.

Cons:

-While the pocket watch is in very good condition overall, the sub-seconds portion of the dial has significant wear.  Much of the enamel is gone in this area.  In addition, the roman numerals 2, 3, 4 and 10 are all partially worn.  However, given the age of the piece, I think this condition is acceptable.  In addition, although it would add to the total cost of the pocket watch, a dial restoration would be possible if you were so inclined.

-The Waltham grade no. 225 watch movement was considered a very good, but not great watch movement for its time.  In contrast, the very best movements typically had 19, 21 or 23 jewels.  This has a moderate impact on the item’s value.

-Pocket watches from European manufacturers like Omega, Rolex and Longines are much hotter in the market right now than pocket watches from U.S. makers.  While this significantly reduces the value of our Waltham 1920s pocket watch, it also affords us the opportunity to acquire it for relatively little money.

Photo Credit: watchesnew2you

Retro 14 Karat Yellow Gold Hamilton Bradford Wristwatch

Buy It Now Price: $375 (price as of 2017; item no longer available)

Pros:

-This beautiful vintage mechanical Hamilton Bradford wristwatch is from the late 1950s or early 1960s.  It sports a high-end, 22 jewel, manual-wind 770 movement in a retro-style, solid 14 karat gold case.

-The Hamilton Watch Company’s venerable 770 movement is widely regarded in the collector community as the finest mechanical caliber ever produced by a U.S. watch manufacturer.

-This vintage wristwatch’s movement appears to be in good condition, with no signs of rust or other damage.  In addition, Hamilton’s 770 movement has a reputation for being robust in service.

-This Hamilton Bradford wristwatch simply exudes high-class, mid century style, with simplified cone-shaped markers for the hour indicators and sleek lozenge-motif hands.  These exceptional watches were often purchased as presentation gifts for employees departing a company after many years of faithful service.

-The Hamilton Bradford model was very expensive at the time of issue.  A 14 karat gold Bradford wristwatch set with diamonds on the face retailed for $300 in 1960.  Our particular example would have only been marginally less expensive when new.  It is shocking that this watch’s nearly 60 year old retail price is not far off the current asking price for our specimen!

-Later model vintage American mechanical wristwatches from the1950s and 1960s are often overlooked in today’s Euro-crazed, luxury watch marketplace.  This makes the very finest vintage American wristwatches, like this $375 Hamilton Bradford, investment bargains.

Cons:

-No close up photos of the strap buckle are given.  Because of the rather obvious difference in gold color between the watch case and the strap buckle, I suspect the buckle is not original.  This would moderately lower the value of the watch.

-The back of the watch case is engraved with the following message: “Stanely G. Flagg & Co. Inc. To John Kurnal For Faithful Service”.  This indicates the watch was a presentation piece, which is typical for Hamilton Bradford watches.  However, some collectors do not like engraved watch cases, and either avoid them or only buy them at a discount.  Personally, I believe it has a neutral impact on desirability and value.

-This movement of this watch has not been serviced according to the seller.  Any buyer would have to take the watch to a professional to have it cleaned and oiled.  This would add another $100 to $200 to the price, assuming no major mechanical issues are uncovered.