Here is a magnificent example of a vintage Must de Cartier wristwatch, circa 1980. Notice the cobalt-blue spinel crown, superb build quality and classic styling of the piece – characteristics shared by all Cartier watches.
The rectangular Cartier Tank wristwatch is one of the world’s most iconic watches. First developed in 1917, the Cartier Tank borrowed its design language (and name) from the most technologically advanced battlefield weapon of its time – the British Mark IV tank. Since that time, Cartier has continuously produced highly coveted luxury watches using this simple, yet instantly recognizable design.
Unfortunately, with a price tag easily exceeding $25,000, an original 1920s Cartier Tank wristwatch is beyond most people’s budget. But what if I told you there was a vintage Cartier Tank model that not only proudly displayed the rich traditions of the storied luxury house, but was also within financial reach?
Welcome to the wonderful world of Must de Cartier watches! These underrated timepieces are, in my opinion, the perfect starter wristwatch for the fledgling horological aficionado.
Must de Cartier’s origins date back to the early 1970s, when, according to legend, an employee who had been prompted for marketing ideas at a meeting exclaimed “Cartier, it’s a must!” This unique philosophy guided the luxury goods company as it sought to create a line of less expensive tank wristwatches that would be more widely accessible. Finally, in 1977, the world renowned Must de Cartier watch line was officially launched.
Because they were targeted at a lower price than traditional Cartier watches, Must de Cartier watches were designed as fashion accessories by the venerable luxury house. In fact, Must de Cartier watches became identified with haute couture in the 1980s after celebrated French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent prominently wore one in his iconic 1983 photo portrait.
Irving Penn’s iconic 1980s black and white photo of the famously shy French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent showing off his Must de Cartier wristwatch. Photo Credit: Delectant
As a result of this fashion-forward thinking, Cartier produced these watches in a dizzying array of styles. Although they all share the ubiquitous tank shape and Must de Cartier nameplate, a surprising number of dial colors and effects can be found. This almost ensures that there will be a vintage Must de Cartier wristwatch that will appeal to you, regardless of your tastes.
Although they were a tremendous commercial success for many decades, Cartier eventually discontinued its Must de Cartier tank line of watches in the mid 2000s. This was done because the company wanted to preserve its image as an extremely exclusive luxury brand, and felt that having a Cartier Tank available under the $2,000 price point might erode its reputation.
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Consequently, Must de Cartier watches are often treated as an afterthought in today’s vintage watch scene. This is a tragedy, as these high quality timepieces were built to very exacting standards. They allow the aspiring watch collector to own a genuine vintage Cartier Tank – a bona fide luxury watch – at a surprisingly reasonable price.
As a result of being frequently overlooked, information about classic Must de Cartier watches is difficult to come by. I hope that this article will prove to be a useful resource to any watch enthusiast interested in these beautiful horological treasures.
First let’s run down the specifications of vintage Must de Cartier watches. These Swiss-made, uni-sex luxury wristwatches measure approximately 30 mm (1.18 inches) long (including the lugs) by 23 mm (0.90 inches) wide. This makes them rather small by today’s standards. But, by the same token, they are also a refreshing change of pace from the grotesquely oversized 45mm+ sport watches that seem to be everywhere these days.
Vintage Must de Cartier watches are found with two different types of movements: a high quality quartz movement or a manual-wind mechanical movement. Quartz movements were more commonly employed, including the 4-jewel Cartier caliber 057, the 4-jewel Cartier caliber 157, the 7-jewel Cartier caliber 90 and the 7 or 8-jewel (opinions vary) Cartier caliber 690. Cartier produced these reliable in-house quartz movements in a joint-venture with the well-regarded Swiss firm of Ebel, one of the most prominent watchmakers of the 1980’s/1990’s.
Sometimes you’ll find Must de Cartier watches sporting the 17-jewel, manual-wind Cartier caliber 78-1 movement. This particular caliber is based on the ETA 2512-1, a workhorse movement that saw extensive use from the late 1970s through the early 1980s due to its compact size, durability and precision.
This list of Must de Cartier watch movements is undoubtedly incomplete. However, in my experience, Cartier always used good quality, well-finished movements in its Must de Cartier tank line. I find this to be especially remarkable given the relatively modest retail price points that the firm was targeting for these watches. This situation is a far cry from some modern Swiss luxury watch brands (cough *Tag Heuer* cough) that offer plastic cases and unfinished, $10 quartz movements on models in the $1,000 to $2,000 price range!
Now, under most circumstances I don’t recommend that you purchase vintage luxury watches (or new luxury watches for that matter) with quartz movements – especially if resale value or investment return is important to you. Vintage quartz watches almost always trade at substantial discounts to similar vintage mechanical watches in the secondary market.
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However, classic Must de Cartier watches are a notable exception to this rule. Vintage quartz and mechanical versions seem to sell for about the same price, provided they are in comparable condition. This is a testament to the outstanding reputation and timeless appearance of these vintage timepieces.
In addition, because both quartz and mechanical Must de Cartier watches are readily available, you can simply purchase whichever type of movement you prefer. This is a real boon to the budding watch addict!
Another benefit shared by all Must de Cartier watches is the fact that they were produced by a globally recognized luxury brand. This becomes especially important if you ever want to resell your watch. Wristwatches from no-name or second tier manufacturers are very difficult to sell for good money. The Cartier name, however, carries considerable cachet.
But let’s not make the mistake of believing that Must de Cartier watches have nothing but their good name going for them. To the contrary, Cartier spent considerable effort to ensure that this line of entry-level luxury watches met their exacting quality standards.
For example, they are made of vermeil, which is a solid sterling silver base coated in a thick layer of gold plating. Obviously, Must de Cartier watches couldn’t be made from solid karat gold or they would be far too expensive to hit their intended price point. But if you must gold plate a watch, this is absolutely the way to do it.
The underlying metal, sterling silver, is a precious metal in its own right. Most gold electroplated watches, on the other hand, use a copper-alloy base.
And the gold electroplate layer on vintage Must de Cartier watches is a full 20 microns (millionths of a meter) thick. This might not seem very impressive until you realize that the gold plating on most good quality fashion jewelry is only 2 or 3 microns thick. Cheap costume jewelry might only have a plating 0.5 microns thick!
In my experience, gold plate over sterling silver also wears much better than gold plate over a base metal. In the latter instance, any scratches or pinholes through the plating will quickly develop green spots or other corrosion. But scratches on vermeil – even deep scratches – will remain inert, allowing for a much more attractive, longer wearing watch.
Even heavily worn vermeil, where a significant amount of the underlying sterling silver is exposed, will still tone to a charming patina over time. Of course, having your well-loved vintage Must de Cartier wristwatch re-plated is always a viable option. These horological prizes are certainly worth the effort.
The fit and finish of Must de Cartier watches are also excellent – oftentimes equal to timepieces costing 2 or even 3 times as much money. They are held together by individual, miniature screws that perfectly secure the two halves of the watch case together. There are no sharp edges or sloppy joints. For being entry-level luxury timepieces, Must de Cartier watches are superlative.
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The stunningly deep-blue synthetic spinel cabochon embedded in the crown of each watch is another famous hallmark of Cartier elegance. It is these small touches that set vintage Must de Cartier watches apart from lesser fashion timepieces.
But perhaps the best aspect of Must de Cartier watches is their relative affordability. Examples in mint or near-mint condition can be found in the $1,000 to $2,000 range. More worn specimens might trade for $600 to $1,200. In a world where vintage solid gold watches from well-regarded watchmakers such as Omega, Rolex or Vacheron Constantin typically sell for $5,000 and up, vintage Must de Cartier watches represent exceptional value.
Unfortunately, the popularity of the Cartier name means that it isn’t uncommon to come across fake Must de Cartier watches. This is slightly surprising, as I normally wouldn’t expect a $1,000 or $1,500 watch to be frequently counterfeited.
In any case, I recommend looking at the build quality of the case for clues to a prospective watch’s authenticity. The fit and finish should be superb, with no pitting, burrs or other manufacturing imperfections. In addition, the case should be screwed together absolutely seamlessly, without any misalignment. The dial should be similarly impeccable, with crisp lettering and markers.
The back of a Must de Cartier tank watch case should be inscribed with the French word for silver, “ARGENT” and either “PLAQUE OR G” or “PLAQUE OR G 20 M”, indicating the 20 micron thick gold plating. It should have full Swiss silver hallmarks as well, typically a canard (duck) inside an octagon border, in addition to two or three other stamps.
Moreover, the movement should always be Swiss-made, with the Cartier name clearly inscribed on it. A supposedly vintage Must de Cartier wristwatch housing a Japanese quartz movement is a clear indicator of a fake!
A Must de Cartier tank that comes with its original box and papers is another sign of authenticity, although this isn’t always foolproof.
As always, the best defense against accidentally purchasing a counterfeit Must de Cartier wristwatch is to buy from a reputable watch dealer, preferably one with an unconditional guarantee of authenticity and a warranty program. And remember, if a deal seems too good to be true, then it probably is!
Of course, watch lovers who aren’t satisfied with vintage Must de Cartier tanks can always step up to one of the luxury firm’s higher-end tank wristwatches. Current models include the Cartier Tank Française, the Tank Anglaise, the Tank Américaine, the Tank Solo, the Tank Louis Cartier and the Tank MC. However, don’t expect to be able to touch any of these watches for less than about $2,500. And some of them sell for far, far more money than that.
Regardless of which tank watch strikes your fancy, rest assured that you are getting Cartier quality and a classic, heirloom quality timepiece. If you are an aspiring watch enthusiast, vintage Must de Cartier watches are undoubtedly some of the best entry-level luxury wristwatches out there. The fact that they will also appreciate in value over time, just like any other high quality investment, is simply icing on the cake.
Read more in-depth Antique Sage vintage watch investment guides here.
